Edinburgh Castle Large Print Audio Guide Script, Study Guides, Projects, Research of Music

Download Edinburgh Castle Large Print Audio Guide Script and more Study Guides, Projects, Research Music in PDF only on Docsity! Edinburgh Castle large print audio guide script large print audio guide script Edinburgh Castle 4 You can adjust the volume using the loudspeaker buttons below the screen. And if you need any help, just ask a member of staff. If you're in a hurry, you can stick to the eight-stop tour highlighted on the site map. Now, to get your visit started, press the green button to hear how the castle has inspired the literary world. 5 101: THE INSPIRATIONAL CASTLE MUSIC: BILL ROBINSON OLGA WOJTAS The Castle Rock is something, rising up as it does from pre- history between the formal grace of the New Town and the noble network of the Old. To have a great primitive black crag rising up in the middle of populated streets of commerce, stately squares and winding closes, is like the statement of an unmitigated fact, preceded by "nevertheless”. EDDIE MAIR The words of Edinburgh-born Muriel Spark, author of The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie, read by novelist Olga Wojtas, celebrating the relationship between the timeless, immutable Castle Rock and the vibrant, modern city rolling around it. SALLY MAGNUSSON This mighty stronghold has inspired innumerable stories from bards, poets and authors. It’s the legendary Castle of the Maidens from the tales of King Arthur. There are ghost stories about lost pipers and headless drummer boys. And it's appeared in the works of novelists ranging from Arthur Conan Doyle, creator of Sherlock Holmes, to Irvine Welsh, author of Trainspotting. 6 J.K. Rowling launched the sixth Harry Potter book here with a midnight reading in the great hall. EDDIE MAIR Novelist James Robertson highlights the castle's symbolic importance. JAMES ROBERTSON It’s a huge, solid, physical building and occupies a huge amount of space on the top of the rock, so it’s very physical, it’s absolutely there. But it’s also there in a slightly more metaphysical way, if you like, it kind of hovers over the whole city, and by extension actually hovers over the whole country. And so much has happened in terms of the passage of time, in terms of the stories that belong to the kings and queens of Scotland, and they’re the people whose tales we remember when we’re thinking about how the nation developed. And so many of them are focussed on this place. So, it’s got a kind of big historical symbolism for the nation and the country. MUSIC: THE CHASM- MYSTIFIED SALLY MAGNUSSON Crime writer Ian Rankin, creator of the Inspector Rebus detective novels, takes inspiration from the castle’s darker heritage. IAN RANKIN 9 2. THE ONE O’CLOCK GUN SFX: CLOCK TICKING SALLY MAGNUSSON In Edinburgh, you always know when it’s exactly one o’clock in the afternoon. SFX: GUN BOOM At that precise moment, a field gun thunders from the heights of the Castle Rock. EDDIE MAIR The One o’Clock Gun has become an Edinburgh institution since it was first fired in 1861. It’s extremely popular with visitors and this part of the castle can get pretty busy as the time approaches. For the best experience, make sure you’re back here – or on the viewpoint above – well before one. The gun isn’t fired on Sundays, Good Friday, or Christmas Day. SALLY MAGNUSSON In the 1860s, the gun was part of a sophisticated navigation system, designed to make sure that ships reached their destinations safely. SFX: WAVES LAPPING, SAIL BILLOWING, GULLS CRYING Today, it’s perhaps difficult to appreciate that in the nineteenth century, working out exactly where you were on the ocean was a real challenge. EDDIE MAIR Sailors could calculate their ship’s latitude – how far north or south they were – by observing the position of the sun and the 10 stars. But to calculate their longitude – how far east or west – a navigator needed an accurate maritime clock. Knowing the precise time was essential because if they were wrong by even a few seconds, ships on long voyages could sail miles off course and perhaps blunder onto rocks and sink. And that’s where the One o’Clock Gun came in. FAINT GUN BOOM IN THE DISTANCE SALLY MAGNUSSON By providing a loud, clear signal at exactly one pm, the gun gave sailors in the Firth of Forth the opportunity to set their clocks with pin-point accuracy. At least, that was the plan. SFX CLOCK TICKING On 5th June, 1861, the gun was primed and at one o’clock exactly... …nothing happened. EDDIE MAIR That was a little awkward. SALLY MAGNUSSON So, a second attempt was made at 1pm on 6th June – with the same, disappointing result. SFX: WIND BLOWING…SILENCE But on the third attempt the following day – success! SFX: GUN BOOMS, CRIES OF PIGEONS At one o'clock, on the afternoon of 7th June, 1861, the sound of the gun boomed out for 20 miles across the city and the Firth of Forth – and has been heard ever since. EDDIE MAIR 11 In 1924, BBC radio introduced hourly time signals, known as the “pips”. SFX: BBC PIPS (VINTAGE) These signalled the end of the gun’s role as a navigational tool but not its place in the hearts of local people. If you won’t be here at one o’clock or if you’ve missed it – this is what the actual gun sounds like. SFX: ONE O CLOCK GUN BEING FIRED SALLY MAGNUSSON Responsibility for firing the One o’Clock Gun rests with Edinburgh Castle’s district gunner. Find out how he prepares to fire one of the world’s most famous artillery pieces – and what happens if something goes wrong – by pressing the green button. 14 3. MASONS' YARD SFX: EXTERIOR, SOUNDS OF CONSTRUCTION, HAMMERING, CHISELLING SALLY MAGNUSSON Even the strongest fortress needs a little tender loving care The passing of time, exposure to the elements, and visitors’ footsteps all take their toll on the castle. Behind this fence – in the masons' yard – skilled craftspeople work to keep the buildings in good repair. Artisans such as stonemasons, joiners and painters have always been needed. EDDIE MAIR For centuries, the challenges they face have remained broadly the same – as have the skills and materials used to overcome them, although nowadays, they also maintain the castle’s electrical systems and utilise cutting-edge conservation techniques. Historical accounts of past works are read here by members of the maintenance and conservation team. SFX: EXTERIOR – FADE OUT READERS 14 August, 1362. £80 to Roger Hog, burgess of Edinburgh, for construction of the tower of the well of Edinburgh Castle 23 April, 1517. ...8 shillings to twelve workmen clearing and carrying the fallen rubble and earth at the falling down of the two great joists in David's Tower for a whole day. SFX: DRIVING RAIN, RUMBLE OF THUNDER, HOWLING WIND SALLY MAGNUSSON 15 The most significant threat to the castle's stonework is ‘weathering’: erosion by moisture, ice and wind. Repairing this damage requires traditional lime mortar rather than cement to bind stones in place. This is because cement retains moisture, whereas lime mortar allows moisture to flow out. READERS 1384. £10 to John of Scone, stonecutter, brought to the work of Edinburgh Castle by the lord earl of Garrick. 20 August, 1496. 17 pence for carrying four spars from Leith to be props for the hall in Edinburgh Castle EDDIE MAIR The stone slabs that pave the castle's walkways and passages are set in clay. They're tested by millions of footsteps every year and inevitably shift out of position. It’s part of a stonemason’s job to lift and re-bed them to ensure everything's safe for visitors. READERS 1383… Payment made by Adam Forester for the making of the pavement for the gate of Edinburgh Castle 10 February, 1617. To James Stein, mason, in consideration of his extraordinary pains in putting in the new iron window in the new work. SALLY MAGNUSSON Maintenance and conservation are never-ending. EDDIE MAIR Carpenters repair window frames, some dating to the 1700s. SALLY MAGNUSSON 16 Painters use gold leaf to retouch heraldic emblems and colour- matched paints on restored ceilings. EDDIE MAIR And electricians and plumbers work to reduce the castle’s carbon footprint and remotely control temperature and humidity to help preserve historic contents. SALLY MAGNUSSON Find out how it feels to have the fabric of the building, quite literally, in your hands, by meeting two of the stonemasons. Press the green button. 19 ANDREW HARVIE I’ve got a daughter and I like to say, ‘look, that was your daddy that done that’. In 50 years’ time she’ll be able to go past that same stone and say, that was your granddad that done that. 4. HOSPITAL SQUARE SFX: BLOOD RED POPPIES BY CLANN AN DRUMMA EDDIE MAIR This is Hospital Square, named after the 1890’s military hospital which stood here. Inside, sick and wounded soldiers were cared for by a dedicated team of doctors and nursing staff. During the First World War, these professionals were tested as never before. While only the physically injured and sick were treated here, there was compassion for those suffering from mental trauma. The firing of the One O’Clock Gun was temporarily suspended as the noise distressed those whose nerves had been shredded by the horror of the trenches. SALLY MAGNUSSON The courtyard is dominated by the 10-tonne bronze statue of one of the First World War's most iconic figures – Field Marshal Sir Douglas Haig, astride his horse Poperinghe, as military historian Allan Carswell explains 20 ALLAN CARSWELL Field Marshal Sir Douglas Haig became commander of the British Expeditionary Force and commanded the largest British army that there had ever been and at the end of the war was widely acclaimed and credited for the British contribution to the allied victory. SALLY MAGNUSSON The statue was commissioned in 1923 by an Indian shipping magnate in recognition of Haig’s wartime achievements, although some debate that. ALLAN CARSWELL Haig’s role as commander of the British Army on the Western Front has since the end of the war come under a great deal of scrutiny, particularly in the 1920s and thirties when a series of memoirs and diaries and books were published which were widely critical of the overall strategy that Haig led and the consequently very, very heavy casualties that the British army suffered. So Haig’s reputation, has since gone through various upheavals, from being seen as an incompetent and heartless commander, to being rehabilitated. SALLY MAGNUSSON Climb to the ramparts by the square for spectacular views across Edinburgh. SFX: DULL MENACING THROB OF AIRSHIP ENGINES, HOWL OF SPITFIRE ENGINES AND CHATTER OF MACHINE GUN FIRE Now add in the menacing shape of a First World War Zeppelin airship, or a clash of Second World War fighter and bomber aircraft. 21 To learn more about both dramatic incidents and hear from soldiers stationed here at the time, press the green button. 24 There was one German aircrew member who actually came back in the 1980s, and visited the castle and made his presence known, that this was the building that he had been treated in as a captured prisoner in 1939. 25 5. NATIONAL WAR MUSEUM SALLY MAGNUSSON The National War Museum explores 400 years of Scotland at war. Through artefacts, personal treasures, paintings, displays and film, it traces Scotland’s experience of war and military service, honouring Scottish military tradition and the men and women who forged it. Stuart Allan is Keeper of Scottish History and Archaeology at National Museums Scotland. STUART ALLAN The galleries are thematic, but they start off with the creation of the first professional army in Scotland, which is in the 1630s. And they come right through the Jacobite period, through the period of the expansion of the British Empire, through the First and Second World Wars, into the decolonisation and up to the present day. What you find is of course that these collections represent how much things have changed, but also how much they’ve stayed the same and that the essential emotional reactions of individual soldiers, sailors, airmen are not that different now from the way they were centuries ago. EDDIE MAIR There are kilts and Highland broadswords, but also gas masks and modern rifles. Throughout the museum, you'll find audio 26 guide numbers giving you an opportunity to discover more with your handset. STUART ALLAN A lot of what visitors see at the museum is really quite personal individual things which people have kept, because the experience of war stays with them. My personal favourite is, there’s a drawing by a sailor who had been in a naval battle in 1806, and he had this, extraordinary, terrifying experience and he seems almost immediately to have made this picture...and he sent it home to his family in Arbroath in the east of Scotland and said, keep this for me, put it in a frame, I want to keep it in remembrance. The other thing of that type I would mention is a pocket New Testament, which was being carried by a Scottish soldier during the First World War, who was killed. It was picked up, or taken from his body by a German soldier who found this poor chap’s name in it, and so sent it back to his family in Scotland after the war as a sort of symbol of reconciliation. EDDIE MAIR The buildings that house the museum have long military histories, first built as munitions stores in about 1750, and later transformed into a military hospital in the 1890s. STUART ALLAN 29 great; the Russians were not checked, but still swept onwards through the smoke, with the whole force of horse and man, here and there knocked over by the shot of our batteries above. With breathless suspense every one awaited the bursting of the wave upon the line of Gaelic rock; but ere they came within two hundred and fifty yards, another deadly volley flashed from the levelled rifle and carried terror among the Russians. They wheeled about, opening files right and left and fled faster than they came... “Bravo, Highlanders! Well done!” shouted the excited spectators. SFX: FADE OUT But events thickened; the Highlanders and their splendid front were soon forgotten – men scarcely had a moment to think of this fact: that the 93rd never altered their formation to receive that tide of horsemen. 'No,' said Sir Colin Campbell, “I did not think it worthwhile to form them even four deep!” The ordinary British line, two deep, was quite sufficient to repel the attack of these Muscovite cavaliers. EDDIE MAIR Russell later shortened his phrase 'thin red streak tipped with a line of steel' to simply the 'thin red line’, which the artist Robert Gibb took as the title of his famous painting. You can see it hanging inside the museum. Even today, Russell's words are still used to describe those who stand firm in the face of overwhelming odds. 30 31 6. GOVERNOR’S HOUSE SFX: BACH SONATA 1 IN B, II EDDIE MAIR It might look like a rather genteel Georgian townhouse… SFX: GARB OF OLD GAUL …but it's anything but. The Governor's House was and still is a place for soldiers. Today, it houses an apartment for the governor and a British Army officers mess where higher ranks eat, socialise and sometimes spend the night. It was built in 1742 as the residence of the garrison's senior officers and within three years it was caught up in the fortress's final siege as Bonnie Prince Charlie's Jacobite army blockaded the castle. SALLY MAGNUSSON Surviving the siege unscathed, the Governor's House then played a unique role in the military operations that followed. The lack of good maps of the Highlands had hampered the British Army in its war against the Jacobites. So, in 1747 – the year after the Jacobites' defeat – an ambitious project began to systematically chart every mountain, river, road and settlement in the country. And for the next eight years, the Governor's House was the military map-makers' base of operations. EDDIE MAIR Survey teams travelled the country each summer and returned to the castle in the winter to turn their data into what became known as the “Great Map”. 34 106. THE CASTLE GOVERNOR SALLY MAGNUSSON Today, the Governor of Edinburgh Castle is an important but largely ceremonial role. Major General David Shaw was appointed in 2009, when he was effectively put in charge of the regional British Army in Scotland and the north of the UK. DAVID SHAW So I had the privilege of being the governor of Edinburgh Castle principally to look after the castle on behalf of Her Majesty. I would be present when members of the Royal Family visited the castle, and I would ensure that the military aspect was properly conducted as well. SALLY MAGNUSSON Major General Mike Riddell-Webster, who became governor in 2014, explains one of the duties. SFX: THE FIRST FEW SHOTS OF A 21-GUN SALUTE MIKE RIDDELL-WEBSTER Eight times a year, we run gun salutes here in the castle.They are very formal 21-gun salutes fired from the gun battery, all associated with royal events. EDDIE MAIR While an apartment comes with the position, few in modern times have made the Governor's House a home. However, David and his wife Verity seized the opportunity. DAVID SHAW I knew it was something which my family would actually be thrilled about, not that it’s necessarily the most comfortable place to live. It was never very warm and the wind used to howl 35 through every possible window and door that was there, but it was still a wonderful place to live. EDDIE MAIR Verity Shaw. VERITY SHAW For some reason, the bathroom was on the very top floor: it was an avocado colour, very beautiful…! And the view from that window was extraordinary. We used to call it the loo with the view. EDDIE MAIR It's not just a view out, though… SFX: MUSIC REPRISE VERITY SHAW I remember one particularly cold morning; the gates had been opened and I’d just made myself a large cup of tea and I saw some people peering through the window from about 10-12 feet away and I waved and they got quite excited. MIKE RIDDELL-WEBSTER For me the best time is to be there when the castle is shut and you have absolute peace and quiet…enjoying a gin and tonic whilst looking out over the Firth of Forth on a summer sunny evening […] is just the best time to be here. 36 7. NEW BARRACKS SFX: SERGEANT SHOUTING SALLY MAGNUSSON Since 1799, this vast barrack block has been home to thousands of soldiers, echoing with their shouting, singing, snoring and swearing. More than 600 officers and men lived here at any one time. A few brought their wives, although married couples got little privacy. EDDIE MAIR The castle had been used as a military barracks since the 1650s, when English leader Oliver Cromwell housed soldiers in the great hall. In the years that followed, other castle buildings were converted for army use, but this seven-storey structure was the only barracks built to order. It was constructed when the British government more than doubled the castle's garrison, fearing an invasion from Napoleon Bonaparte's France and the spread of revolutionary ideas among the population here. SFX: LOUD CROWDED HUBBUB OF VOICES SALLY MAGNUSSON Purpose built it may have been, but conditions inside the New Barracks left a lot to be desired. Each man was allocated a personal space of just 450 cubic feet – 20 less than a pauper was given in an Edinburgh workhouse. Soldiers shared meals, beds, and urine buckets in overcrowded, poorly-ventilated rooms. Despite this, every man was expected to maintain the highest of personal standards – or else! 39 107. THE ARMY AT THE CASTLE TODAY SFX: CHANGING OF THE GUARD AT THE CASTLE SALLY MAGNUSSON The military retains a base at Edinburgh Castle. With support from civilian staff, the garrison carries out administrative and ceremonial duties, not least looking after the royal family in Scotland. Alexander McBroom – a warrant officer class 1 with the Royal Regiment of Scotland – became garrison sergeant major in 2017. ALEXANDER MCBROOM It's got its challenges serving here to do with things like access and visitors coming in because this is a fully working military camp. Inside the castle, my job is to do with state ceremonial and public duties. However, we have got operational units within the establishment as well. The Royal Military Police are based in here, assets of the artillery and we have also got members of the 51 Brigade and the governor, they all work in the castle. SALLY MAGNUSSON The New Barracks always has an overnight contingent and there's a strong sense of camaraderie and awareness of the army's heritage. 40 ALEXANDER MCBROOM It's one of those things the military has always been good at is that sense of belonging, that sense of being together. I'm in the Royal Regiment of Scotland and I need to wear certain uniforms on certain days. I wear my tartan trousers on a Friday and I wear a kilt on the Monday to Thursday and that's a tradition. The best thing is just that feeling that you are part of the history of the castle and whether then castle survives for another thousand years or forever, I'm part of the castle now. There's been military based here for about a thousand if not more years. So, you know, this military site must remain, it’s a part of the Scottish legacy and it must remain. 41 8. REGIMENTAL MUSEUM OF THE ROYAL SCOTS DRAGOON GUARDS EDDIE MAIR Inside this museum, you'll discover the dramatic story of the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards, the British Army's elite Scottish cavalry regiment. Its heritage stretches back more than 300 years, with several ancestral cavalry regiments, including the famous Royal Scots Greys. Appropriately, its motto is “Second to None”. Edwin Rutherford is museum curator. EDWIN RUTHERFORD The regiment was formed in 1678 and they’re involved in all of the major campaigns of the British Army. You see them in the War of the Austrian Succession, the War of the Spanish Succession, then into the Napoleonic Wars. You have them involved in the Crimea, the Indian Mutiny, the Boer War, the First World War, the Second World War, and then contemporary campaigns as well in Iraq, Northern Ireland, Cyprus. SALLY MAGNUSSON The museum reveals this proud regimental history through artefacts, dioramas and digital displays. 44 108. THE STORY OF CHARLES EWART SALLY MAGNUSSON Charles Ewart was a sergeant in the Royal Scots Greys. 6’4” and of 'Herculean strength', he was an expert swordsman and skilled rider. In 1815, Ewart earned his place in history at Waterloo, the decisive battle that destroyed Napoleon Bonaparte’s French army and helped shape 19th-century Europe. SFX: SUBTLE BATTLE SOUNDSCAPE FADES UP EDDIE MAIR In the thick of the fighting, the cavalryman spotted a French regimental standard known as an Eagle, which Napoleon himself had ordered be defended to the death. Ewart didn’t hesitate. These are his own words, read by actor Jack McMillan. JACK MCMILLAN SFX: SOUNDS OF BATTLE, FIGHTING THROUGHOUT It was in the first charge I took the eagle from the enemy; he and I had a hard contest for it; he thrust for my groin - I parried it off, and I cut him through the head; after which I was attacked by one of their lancers, who threw his lance at me, but missed the mark by my throwing it off with my sword by my right side; 45 then I cut him from the chin upwards, which cut went through his teeth. Next, I was attacked by a foot soldier, who after firing at me, charged me with his bayonet; but he very soon lost the combat, for I parried it, and cut him down through the head; so that finished the contest for the eagle. SFX: SOUNDS OF BATTLE FADE, WHISTLE OF WIND I retired to a height, and stood there for upwards an hour, which gave me a general view of the field, but I cannot express the sight I beheld; the bodies of my brave comrades were lying so thick upon the field that it was scarcely possible to pass, and horses innumerable. SALLY MAGNUSSON Charles Ewart died in 1846. He's buried on the Esplanade before the castle, his Eagle displayed here, inside the Museum of the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards. 46 9. MUSEUM OF THE ROYAL SCOTS (THE ROYAL REGIMENT) AND THE ROYAL REGIMENT OF SCOTLAND SFX: REGIMENTAL MUSIC – “DUMBARTON’S DRUMS” SALLY MAGNUSSON The Royal Scots' Museum celebrates four centuries of military tradition and service. Inside what was once the garrison’s gymnasium, you’ll find paintings, uniforms, weapons, dioramas and medals – including seven Victoria Crosses, the UK’s highest award for gallantry. Each tells a remarkable story of bravery in the face of death. EDDIE MAIR The Royal Scots was raised in 1633, making it Scotland’s and Britain’s oldest infantry regiment. In 2006, it was merged with other Scottish units to form The Royal Regiment of Scotland. For trustee Colonel Robert Watson, the museum is where his regiment’s heritage is brought vividly to life. One tale tells how Private McBain took his baby son into battle at Malplaquet in France in 1709. ROBERT WATSON McBain was a professional soldier. He was a very good swordsman, he taught fencing to officers in the winter. Because 49 109. PRIVATE HUGH MCIVER VC EDDIE MAIR Hugh McIver joined The Royal Scots in 1914, at the start of the First World War. In August 1918 – less than three months before the end of the war – his bravery earned him the highest honour a British soldier can receive: the Victoria Cross. The official citation is read by actor John McIsaac. SFX: FIRST WORLD WAR ARTILLERY UNDER CITATION JOHN MCISAAC No 12311, Private Hugh McIver, MM, late 2nd Battallion The Royal Scots. For most conspicuous bravery and devotion to duty when employed as a company-runner. In spite of heavy artillery and machine-gun fire, he carried messages regardless of his own safety. Single-handed, he pursued an enemy scout into a machine-gun post, and having killed six of the garrison, captured twenty prisoners with two machine guns. This gallant action enabled the company to advance unchecked. Later, he succeeded at great personal risk in stopping the fire of a British tank which was directed in error against our own troops at close range. By this very gallant action Private McIver undoubtedly saved many lives. EDDIE MAIR 50 Ten days later, his company commander wrote to McIver's mother. JOHN MCISAAC SFX: BIRD SONG My Dear Mrs McIver, I am writing these few lines to you to try to express, both on my own behalf and also for the men of my company, our greatest sympathy in the loss of your son Hugh in the recent fighting. It came as a great blow to me, as he was my personal orderly, and he was quite close to me when he was killed. We were going up a hill, attacking some machine guns, when he was killed by a bullet, and it may soften your blow a little to know he never felt it. SFX: THE LAST POST It is only about ten days since I recommended him for the Victoria Cross, and it is quite likely that it will be awarded, and if ever a man deserved the VC, Hugh did, as he was one of the best and bravest boys in the battalion; in fact, the bravest I have ever known. I can only say, Mrs McIver, that your son died a hero’s death, and he has left a record in the battalion second to none. Again, expressing my deepest sympathy to you and yours, I am yours very sincerely, ALICK GORDON 51 EDDIE MAIR Hugh McIver's Victoria Cross is displayed here in the Museum of the Royal Scots and the Royal Regiment of Scotland. 54 110. PIRATES AND TORTURE SFX: FALLING FURTHER – MYSTIFIED SALLY MAGNUSSON These vaults haven't only held prisoners of war. In 1684, William Spence, secretary to the renegade Earl of Argyll, was tortured with a leg-crushing device known as “the boots” while his hands were mangled with thumb screws – somewhat innocently referred to as “thumbikins” The lawyer John Lauder was among those who watched the brutal interrogation. His report is read by actor Andrew Burnet: ANDREW BURNET Mr Spence, Argyle’s servant, is again tortured with the thumbikins, a new invention, and discovered by generals Dalyell and Drummond, who saw them used in Muscovy; and when he heard they were to put him in boots again, being frightened therewith, desired time, and he would declare what he knew. EDDIE MAIR Another prisoner was John Stewart, who in 1720, along with his crewmates, was sentenced to death for piracy. An extract from his last testament is read by actor Douglas Russell. SFX: MUSIC REPRISE, WAVES GENTLY LAPPING ON SHORELINE, GULLS CRYING DOUGLAS RUSSELL And I do solemnly declare as a dying man, that whatever I did while I was aboard of the pirate ship, was by force, and upon the peril of my life; and that I and these taken with me, are not 55 only innocent of what is laid to our charge, but during the time we was aboard of them, I never seed them wrong man, woman or child; ...and I with several others having at last made our escape, we sailed for Britain, with no other design but to free and clear ourselves from the tyranny of these pirates, that had detained so far contrary to our inclinations. And for the judge and jury I shall not reflect on them, but do declare that I am innocently put to death. As to the crimes for which I am condemned; O God, I recommend my spirit. SALLY MAGNUSSON In 1917, Glaswegian trade unionist Davie Kirkwood was held without trial at the castle after supporting striking munitions workers, which the authorities felt damaged the war effort. Kirkwood was later elected a member of Parliament. His account is read by actor Bill Paterson. SFX: MUSIC REPRISE BILL PATERSON I was in a dungeon in Edinburgh Castle, sitting on my bag, with my umbrella propped up in a corner! My new habitation was a vault far below the ground, into which the only light entered from a small grated window high up near the roof. I was a done man. My mind refused to think. My body seemed incapable of exertion. I wondered what was to happen next. Hours passed in utter loneliness. The little light faded from the window. I was alone in the darkness. Sitting there, elbows on knees and cheeks in the cup of my hands, I seemed the most helpless of mortals. I was very near to breaking-point. The door opened and a soldier appeared. In the light of the soldier's lamp I saw my bed, a mattress and a pillow. They were filthy. He left me food that gied me a scunner. But I was too spent to worry myself with food. As soon as he left, I lay down and slept. 56 59 111. ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON’S ST IVES EDDIE MAIR An excerpt from the novel St Ives, by Robert Louis Stevenson, read by poet Jenny Lindsay. JENNY LINDSAY The tunnel was cleared, the stake driven, the rope extended. As I moved forward to the place, many of my comrades caught me by the hand and wrung it, an attention I could well have done without. ‘Keep an eye on Clausel!’ I whispered to Laclas; and with that, got down on my elbows and knees took the rope in both hands, and worked myself, feet foremost, through the tunnel. SFX: EXTERIOR, HARSH WIND When the earth failed under my feet, I thought my heart would have stopped; and a moment after I was demeaning myself in mid-air like a drunken jumping-jack. I have never been a model of piety, but at this juncture prayers and a cold sweat burst from me simultaneously. I must occasionally have caught a gasp of breath, but it was quite unconscious. And the whole forces of my mind were so consumed with losing hold and getting it again, that I could scarce have told whether I was going up or coming down. Of a sudden I knocked against the cliff with such a thump as almost bereft me of my sense; and, as reason twinkled back, I was amazed to find that I was in a state of rest, that the face of the precipice here inclined outwards at an angle which relieved me almost wholly of the burthen of my own weight, and that one of my feet was safely planted on a ledge. I craned timidly forward and looked down. There, upon a floor of darkness, I beheld a certain pattern of hazy lights, some of 60 them aligned as in thoroughfares, others standing apart as in solitary houses; and before I could well realise it, or had in the least estimated my distance, a wave of nausea and vertigo warned me to lie back and close my eyes. I filled my lungs, got a good hold on my rope, and once more launched myself on the descent. 12. MILITARY PRISON SFX: KEYS, DOOR BOLT CLOSING SALLY MAGNUSSON This is a purpose-built military prison. Completed in 1845, it was designed for the castle's soldiers as a place of punishment for offenses such as drunkenness, fighting and being absent without leave. This was an alternative to the harsh corporal punishment that had previously been used to enforce discipline. By the mid-nineteenth century, public opinion had turned against flogging – whipping the bare back with knotted cord. It was considered unnecessarily brutal and the army found more humane ways to maintain discipline. EDDIE MAIR That said, imprisonment here wasn’t an easy option. Each man was kept in solitary confinement and existed on a meagre diet of milk and potatoes. SFX: [FADES IN] SCRATCHING OF GRAFFITI INTO STONE 61 But although prisoners weren’t allowed to associate with one another, they still found a way to share their feelings vividly: they scratched graffiti into the prison's walls. READERS Not long now – two years and 10 days Down with the military dictatorship EDDIE MAIR While mostly hidden from view today, this Second World War graffiti gives us a remarkable glimpse into the thoughts of rank- and-file soldiers, as historian Allan Carswell explains. ALLAN CARSWELL It’s an enormous mixture of, ...quite detailed descriptions of a person’s circumstances, to caricatures of particular people, some of them obviously figures within the military hierarchy, figures from popular culture, cartoon figures, to some fairly graphic obscenities. READERS Wide open spaces – that's what I want. What, no leave? Three years no baccy or beer? ALLAN CARSWELL These are young men,...they’re not suited, they’re not fit, they’re not the right kind of people, but the army, as ever, is just having to cope, it’s having to process these people. READERS I stay here forever. All the time with nothing to do. The English are every day not good. 64 DAVID CALDWELL In 1296, Scotland was facing a full-scale invasion by the English King Edward I. Edward, it appears to me, did not like what he saw when he came to Edinburgh Castle. It was clearly not going to be a walkover. He had three engines, stone-throwing machines, which he used to attack the castle. SFX: TREBUCHET LOADING, FIRING It’s not at all clear that the stone throwing machines had done any damage, but Edward had quite cannily given the commander of the castle the chance to consult with the Scottish King, John Balliol. And the response that King John basically gave was, look to your own safety. The Scottish constable then surrendered the castle. SALLY MAGNUSSON Among the most destructive sieges was the notorious Lang Siege. DAVID CALDWELL At that time in Scotland was a struggle between the supporters of Mary Queen of Scots, who was a prisoner in England, and the supporters of her son, James VI. by 1571, the supporters of Mary were basically confined to Edinburgh Castle. It was commanded by a very experienced and good soldier, Kirkcaldy of Grange. The forces against him...mounted various attempts to get him to surrender but there was never much risk that they could take the castle at all. SALLY MAGNUSSON So in 1573, they asked England for help. 65 SFX: RUMBLE OF SEIGE GUNS DAVID CALDWELL 26 large English siege guns, along with some Scottish guns, firing for several days had a dramatic effect on the stone walls of the castle Kirkcaldy of Grange really had no choice but to surrender. EDDIE MAIR More than nine centuries earlier, the first recorded siege took place in AD 640. At that time, Castle Rock was capped by a hill fort. This was home to a people known as the Gododdin who left epic poetry describing their exploits. Listen to a verse and glimpse their long-vanished world by pressing the green button. 66 131. THE GODODDIN SFX: EXTERIOR BLEAK LANDSCAPE, HOWLING OF WIND, CRY OF + CERDDORIAETH BY TIM RAYBURN NERYS JONES [First two lines of untranslated Gododdin] SALLY MAGNUSSON Centuries before Edinburgh Castle, a mighty hill fort stood atop this volcanic rock. It was built by an ancient people known as the Gododdin and was named Din Eidyn, or, Edinburgh. In about AD 600, warriors gathered here to prepare for war. This was described in a remarkable collection of seventh century poetry known as Y Gododdin. Scholar Nerys Jones… NERYS JONES It tells the story of the men of the Gododdin who go to battle. They travel from the castle in Edinburgh where they were feasted with their lord for a year beforehand, they go down the way, all the way to Catterick, to fight the English and at the battle they’re all slaughtered except for the poet. So there are a number of mentions of Dunedin, of Edinburgh, and the fort here [07:39]. The poet gives us images of the roaring fires and the feast with silver and gold goblets and the food and the wine and the mead that was drunk. 69 14. ST MARGARET’S CHAPEL SFX: MEDIEVAL CHANT VIR PERFECTE EDDIE MAIR Inside this tiny chapel, generations of royalty have knelt in prayer. Some may have known the music you're listening to, an early 13th-century Scottish religious chant Vir perfecte, recorded specially for this guide. St Margaret’s Chapel is the oldest building in Edinburgh, dating to the early 1100s. It’s dedicated to Scotland’s only royal saint, a woman who still inspires much love and devotion. SALLY MAGNUSSON Saint Margaret was a Hungarian-born Saxon princess who fled to Scotland after the Norman Conquest of England in 1066. She married Malcolm III, a king whose father, Duncan, had been killed by Macbeth. Margaret lived a pious life, devoted to prayer and caring for the poor. The churchman Turgot, bishop of St Andrews, described Margaret's death at the castle in 1093. His words are read by actor Mark McDonnell: MARK MCDONNELL Feeling now that death was close at hand, she at once began the prayer which is usually said by the priest before he received the body and blood of our Lord...As she was saying the words 'deliver me', her soul was freed from the chains of the body and departed to Christ. Her departure was so calm, so tranquil, that we conclude her soul passed to the land of eternal rest and peace. 70 EDDIE MAIR Her youngest son, King David I, had this chapel built in the 1130s, dedicated to his late mother. In 1250, Pope Innocent IV declared Margaret a saint. SALLY MAGNUSSON The chapel survived siege and warfare but by the 1500s, it was being used as a gunpowder store and its original purpose was long forgotten. Then in 1845, its heritage was rediscovered and the building lovingly restored as a place of worship. The chapel continues to fulfil that role today, with services, baptisms and weddings held inside. It also serves as inspiration for a remarkable institution – the St Margaret's Chapel Guild, formed in 1942 to follow in the saint's charitable footsteps. Members must have Margaret as a first or middle name. Twice a week, they decorate the chapel with flowers. Hazel Margaret Dunn joined in 2005. HAZEL DUNN There is a sense of serenity and it just seeps through the walls, and when you come out it’s always going to be a really good day if you’ve been at the castle arranging the flowers. We’re not florists, we do it just with passion. Some people bring flowers from their garden, some people buy many, many, many flowers, but it’s just a tiny little space, you always forget how small the space actually is. 71 I usually arrange the flowers in November, so the light is slightly different at that time. The stained-glass windows, the colours in that are always really lovely. And then the benches, the pews that are there, they’ve got a lovely feel to them, so actually if you just sit down quietly and peacefully sitting against the stone and just with your own thoughts, it’s lovely. SFX: MEDIEVAL CHANT VIR PERFECTE EDDIE MAIR The dramatic history of this holy place is written into the stone of its walls. Join archaeologist Rachel Pickering to hunt for clues by pressing the green button. 141. INVESTIGATING THE CHAPEL'S STONES SFX: ALTERNATE CHANT EDDIE MAIR St Margaret’s Chapel has stood for more than 850 years. Like so many parts of the castle, it’s been altered, damaged, repaired, and restored. As well as being a royal place of worship, it’s been a gunpowder store and a humble storeroom. You can see evidence of its story in the chapel’s walls. Archaeologist Rachel Pickering points out some clues. 74 15. MONS MEG SFX: SINGLE CANNON FIRE SALLY MAGNUSSON Meet Mons Meg. In her heyday, she was one of the most powerful weapons in Europe. She was also a wedding present, given to King James II in 1457. EDDIE MAIR She was named ‘Mons’ after the city where she was forged, in what is today Belgium. SALLY MAGNUSSON “Meg” is a bit more of a mystery. EDDIE MAIR She weighs six tonnes, the same as four cars, and her barrel width is almost half a metre, one of the largest calibre guns ever made. SALLY MAGNUSSON Commissioned in 1449 by the French Duke, Philip the Good of Burgundy, Mons Meg was a siege weapon designed to smash holes in castle walls. CLIVE WOODLEY I wish we could have fired it, that would have been great fun! [Chuckles] SALLY MAGNUSSON Clive Woodley is a ballistics expert whose analysis revealed the cannon's impressive firepower. CLIVE WOODLEY They could have achieved a muzzle velocity of about 300 metres per second, and they could have achieved a range of about 3 kilometres. 75 Our calculations showed, these were using our up-to-date ballistics codes that we use to design warheads for modern weapons, then the penetration could have been up to about a metre in distance. SALLY MAGNUSSON In other words, Mons Meg was a weapon of medieval mass destruction. Her notoriety loudly proclaimed royal power throughout the kingdom. Such was her fearsome reputation, the mere approach of Mons Meg could make a well-defended castle fling open its gates and surrender. EDDIE MAIR However, physically transporting Mons Meg was far from easy. Hauled by horses, oxen and hundreds of men, she could manage just nine miles a day. SALLY MAGNUSSON Firing Mons Meg was equally hard. First, pour 34kg of gunpowder – about the weight of a 10-year- old child – down the barrel, with a wad of straw rammed over it. SFX: STONE BALL ROLLS DOWN BARREL Next, roll a heavy stone ball inside. SFX: HISSING OF A LIT FUSE Place a lit taper by the touch hole on the narrower end of the barrel and stand back. Hopefully, the flame ignites the gunpowder, sending the stone ball hurtling towards its target. SFX: RAGGED, VERY DEEP BOOM EDDIE MAIR 76 By the middle of the sixteenth century, Mons Meg was essentially obsolete as a weapon. But she could still deliver deafening salutes on special occasions, such as Mary Queen of Scots’ first marriage in 1558. In 1681, disaster struck. While firing a salute for the future King James VII, Mons Meg burst. <SFX: EXPLOSION> HES MONS MEG SOUND EFFECT LEADING TO EXPLOSION Look around two thirds of the way down the barrel for the damage. SALLY MAGNUSSON Broken or not, Mons Meg is now a much-loved resident of Edinburgh Castle. But in 2015, Mons Meg found herself suspended high above the ramparts... Find out what happened next by pressing the green button 79 16. DOG CEMETERY SFX: DOGS HAPPILY BARKING EDDIE MAIR Look over the ramparts into this secluded little cemetery. It honours the dogs kept as regimental mascots or as officers’ pets. For centuries, soldiers have adopted animals to boost morale and provide companionship, with many sharing the hardships and dangers of the battlefield. This remarkable cemetery is a monument to the strength of the relationship between soldier and dog. SALLY MAGNUSSON Beginning with Fido, the much-loved companion of the garrison's commanding officer in 1847, the cemetery commemorates 26 dogs. Among those that have their own headstone are Topsy, Winkle, Yum Yum and Gyp. SFX: SOUND OF A SHIPS STEAM WHISTLE EDDIE MAIR Some travelled the world with their regiments. Dobbler accompanied the Argyle and Sutherland Highlanders to China, Sri Lanka and South Africa in the 1880s. SFX: ALSATIAN BARK, LIGHT NORMANDY LANDINGS Major, an Alsatian who, in the Second World War, landed with Allied troops at Normandy in 1944, made it all the way to Berlin. SALLY MAGNUSSON In 1853, a terrier called Bob joined the Royal Scots during the Crimean War. After he was killed by a butcher's cart, Bob 80 wasn't buried here: his body was stuffed and today is displayed at the National War Museum. EDDIE MAIR SFX: TRUMPETING OF AN ELEPHANT Undoubtedly, the most bizarre regimental mascot was not a dog but an elephant, brought from Sri Lanka to the castle in 1838 by the 78th Highland regiment. The elephant – named Jumbo – was looked after by one Private James McIntosh, who took him to the canteen where he was given beer through an open window. SFX: PUBLIC HOUSE INTERIOR, TRUMPETING OF ELEPHANT Afterwards, the unlikely drinking partners would retire to the stables together to 'sleep it off'. After his death, Jumbo's toenails were kept as a curious memento of the largest ever member of the garrison. They're now on display in the National War Museum. 81 17. ARGYLE TOWER SFX: HEAVY PORTCULLIS IS LIFTED EDDIE MAIR The Argyle Tower sits directly above the Portcullis Gate, overlooking the route through which almost every visitor to the castle has passed. The oldest stonework in the gateway dates to the 1300s.The upper half, the Argyle Tower, was added in the late 1800s. It’s reached by a steep flight of stone steps known as the Lang Stairs, which was once the main route into the medieval castle. SALLY MAGNUSSON A more perilous ascent was made in 1314, during the Wars of Independence. Edinburgh Castle was in the hands of the English and King Robert the Bruce wanted it back. SFX: EXTERIOR, NIGHT, CLIMBING SOUNDS Twenty men, commanded by Bruce's nephew Sir Thomas Randolph, scaled the sheer rock face in the pitch-black of a moonless night, using only rope ladders and their bare hands. They crept over the ramparts, overpowered the surprised English garrison and recaptured the castle. This daring feat was celebrated in an epic poem, entitled “The Bruce”, an extract of which is read in medieval Scots by scholar Gary West. SFX: MOURNFUL HOWLING OF WIND GARY WEST For the crag wes hey and hidwous And the climbing rycht perilous, For hapnyt ony to slyd and fall 84 The account of one of the defenders is read by actor Andrew Burnet. SFX: EXTERIOR, NIGHT, FREEZING WIND AND FALL OF SNOW ANDREW BURNET About one o'clock in the morning, when they had ceased from firing their bombs, there fell much snow, which, notwithstanding the season of the year, did lie a great part of the day two foot high. The soldiers gathered the snow, and put it into vessels, which served them for water, for fear the wells would fail. SALLY MAGNUSSON The reprieve was only temporary. A month later, without hope of victory, the castle surrendered anyway. EDDIE MAIR So, what’s down there now? In 2018, the Fore Well was drained and a man was lowered to the very bottom of the shaft. To hear what he found, press the green button. 85 181. DESCENDING INTO THE WELL SFX: AUDIO OF THE ACTUAL EVENT USED THROUGHOUT THIS STOP, TO COINCIDE WITH MARK’S ACCOUNT EDDIE MAIR In 2018, Mark Soutar, a member of the “confined spaces team”, descended into the Fore Well. His task was to laser scan the interior to reveal its historic structure in unprecedented detail. You're listening to a recording of the operation – the beeps are from Mark's gas safety monitor. MARK SOUTAR Basically, you’re set up, you’re attached to a winch on a tripod, you’ve no control, you’re just swinging, you start spinning as well, because, the wire rope that you’re going down on is braided, so it’s kind of got a natural twist in it, so when you’re going down, there’s nothing to hang on to. I think it was the second day, one of the cables had kind of got crossed over each other...the cable actually slips and it must drop me about half a metre, but when you’re about 50 feet down the well, there’s nothing to hang on to and it slips about half a metre, it’s quite daunting and it gives you a bit of a fright. There was probably about, I don’t know, say a foot of water in the bottom. the water was absolutely crystal clear, and you can actually just see like a mass of coins. This was like a treasure chest at the bottom – it was just like a treasure chest at the bottom. All in all I must have been in the bottom of the well for approaching two hours...the water is gradually percolating its way back up again. So, at one point it must have been millimetres away from the top of the wellies. I would go down again, yeah, it was good. You can always say that you’re the only person that’s been down the bottom of 86 the Fore Well at Edinburgh, so it’s a definite achievement, you know. 89 SUSAN MORRISON And Edinburgh Castle is magnificent to be seen With its beautiful walks and trees so green, Which seems like a fairy dell; And nearby its rocky basement is St Margaret’s Well, Where the tourist can drink at when he feels dry, And view the castle from beneath so very high, Which seems almost towering to the sky. EDDIE MAIR The Esplanade has been a mustering point for troops embarking for the front line in two world wars and subsequently a stage upon which many concerts have taken place. The Proclaimers are among the bands who’ve performed here most often. Brothers Charlie and Craig Reid. PROCLAIMERS It's a great place to play, you know. There is a feeling of it being surreal having grown up here, and spent so much time here when we were young. When you're a musician, you think 'maybe one day, y'know, who knows' – and then it happens, it came true for us, so we're very lucky. There isn't really anywhere better, anywhere in the world. 90 SALLY MAGNUSSON The Esplanade is perhaps most famous for hosting spectacular annual performances of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo since 1950. To hear the Tattoo’s chief executive and producer reveal what makes this such a globally-recognised event, press the green button. 91 191. ROYAL EDINBURGH MILITARY TATTOO SFX: BURST OF TATTOO MUSIC SALLY MAGNUSSON For three weeks every August, Edinburgh Castle is transformed into the setting for one of the world's most exhilarating spectacles – the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. In the summer months, you'll have passed through its temporary stands. This showcase of music, dance and precision military display features representatives of armed forces and cultural acts from around the globe, performing to sell-out crowds and an international TV audience of millions. The term tattoo comes from the old Dutch 'doe den tap toe' for the drum tap played to tell British soldiers in the Low Countries that it was time leave the taverns. Brigadier David Allfrey was appointed producer and chief executive in 2011. DAVID ALLFREY The Castle of Edinburgh provides an unmatched backcloth, the scenery for our show. This castle, many hundreds of years old, has its own atmosphere, you can feel the atmosphere as you walk up Castle Hill. It sits in all weathers and it is the most incredible place to do great theatre and our show opens each evening with a fanfare. 94 On the upper floors were the king and queen’s living quarters, each maintained by trusted attendants. Deep below these chambers were huge storage vaults, piled high with salt and grain, wine and coal. Men occupied most of the positions within the royal household although women certainly nursed babies, taught children, repaired clothes, and worked in the laundry and kitchen. SFX: MUSIC OUT EDDIE MAIR In 1573, when the castle was held by supporters of Mary Queen of Scots during the “Lang Siege”, David’s Tower was devastated by a cannon bombardment. The Half Moon Battery was built around the shattered remains, and this once-mighty building was all but forgotten. Until 1912… when three Edwardian scholars, intrigued by an out-of-place arrow slit in a palace coal cellar, started digging. They discovered long-lost steps, passageways and rooms, unvisited for centuries. SFX: ROB JACKSON DISCORDANT SOUNDS FADE IN RUMBLE THROUGH THE FINAL WORDS SALLY MAGNUSSON One of those chambers was the setting for the notorious murder known as the Black Dinner. You can listen to historian 95 Christine McGladdery and Game of Thrones creator George RR Martin dissect this grisly story of betrayal by pressing the green button. 96 201. THE BLACK DINNER SFX: OMINOUS CHORDS (ROB JACKSON), RUNNING FROM BEFORE THE POEM AND FADING AT ITS END ERIN MAY KELLY Edinburgh castle, town and tower God grant you sink for sin And that even for the Black Dinner Earl Douglas got therein. EDDIE MAIR That traditional rhyme, read by poet Erin May Kelly, recalls one of the most infamous episodes in medieval history – the Black Dinner. The story goes that in 1440, 16-year-old William, 6th Earl of Douglas, and his little brother, are invited to Edinburgh Castle by its keeper, Sir William Crichton. The young noblemen dine here merrily with King James II – himself just ten years of age. But the mood abruptly chills when a servant brings in the severed head of a black bull. SFX: OMINOUS CHORDS RETURN That's the signal for Crichton's soldiers to seize the brothers, drag them outside and execute them for treason – ignoring the tearful pleading of the powerless child king.