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Waves and Coastal Features: Understanding Wave Properties, Formation, and Impacts, Quizzes of Mathematics

Definitions and explanations of various terms related to waves and coastal features. Topics covered include wave properties (length, height, period), formation factors, wave behavior near the shore, longshore currents, rip currents, beach types, and coastal erosion processes. Learn about the mathematical relationship between wave length, period, and velocity, as well as the factors that determine wave strength and the formation of longshore bars and troughs.

Typology: Quizzes

2010/2011

Uploaded on 05/03/2011

gym11kid
gym11kid 🇺🇸

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Download Waves and Coastal Features: Understanding Wave Properties, Formation, and Impacts and more Quizzes Mathematics in PDF only on Docsity! TERM 1 wave length, . DEFINITION 1 crest to crest TERM 2 wave height, DEFINITION 2 trough to crest TERM 3 wave period, DEFINITION 3 time it takes for two adjacent crests to pass the same point TERM 4 crest, DEFINITION 4 top TERM 5 trough DEFINITION 5 bottom TERM 6 Give and use the mathematical relationship between wave length, wave period and wave velocity. DEFINITION 6 wave velocity = wave length/ period TERM 7 Describe how waves are formed and the factors that determine their strength DEFINITION 7 waves are gellerated by wind blowing over water size of waves depends on : 1) wind speed 2) wind duration 3) fetch ( distance over which wind blows) TERM 8 Describe what happens as a wave approaches the shore DEFINITION 8 1) depth decrease to less than 1/2 wave length 2) bottom interfers with circular motion of wave slowing wave 3) oeriod is constant wave length decreased wave TERM 9 the process of wave refraction DEFINITION 9 wave shapes to coast TERM 10 Define and explain longshore currents DEFINITION 10 currents parrallel to the shore
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