Download Waves and Coastal Processes: A Comprehensive Study and more Quizzes Geology in PDF only on Docsity! TERM 1 Wave DEFINITION 1 - a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space TERM 2 Other mechanisms which may generate waves DEFINITION 2 earthquake volcanic eruptions landslides TERM 3 Anatomy of a wave DEFINITION 3 crest (top of wave) Trough (separate crest) Wavelength (the horizontal distance) Wave height and amplitude (the vertical distance) Wave period TERM 4 The size of wave depends on.. DEFINITION 4 wind velocity wind duration fetch (distance) TERM 5 Fetch DEFINITION 5 the distance across the wind can blowthe area of water on which a wind blows to generate waves TERM 6 Wave dispersion DEFINITION 6 Effects after fetch, wave change to swell, which are lower and longer and may carry a storm's energy to distant shores. TERM 7 Motion of waves dies out when.. DEFINITION 7 the water depth reaches about half the wavelength, and the waves begin to break and become surf TERM 8 Waves entering shallow H20 DEFINITION 8 Wave length --> decreaseWave height --> increaseWave period --> constant TERM 9 Types of breaking waves DEFINITION 9 spilling breakers plunging breakers surging breakers TERM 10 When waves --> approach the coast at an angle DEFINITION 10 the force of water is deflected and produce a longshore current (parallel to the shore) TERM 21 Beaches DEFINITION 21 - the shoreline where waves meet the land; is a dynamic environment which changes shape and character over time- absorb wave energy- composed of Quartz- may be exposed at low tide --> bar exposure- small waves --> no breaking over the bars TERM 22 Rips and Bars DEFINITION 22 - strong local current moving seaward in the near-shore zone TERM 23 Beach seasonal variation DEFINITION 23 calm conditions --> beach and dune buildingStorm conditions --> erosions; bar development TERM 24 3 Generalised beach type DEFINITION 24 Reflective Intermediate --> rips and bars Dissipative TERM 25 Coastal lagoons and estuaries DEFINITION 25 form firstly by flooding of a bay or former river valley then by wave action or longshore current ( pile up sediments forming a beach/barrier have constricted openings to the sea TERM 26 Barriers DEFINITION 26 long, narrow, shore parallel, depositional features, composed of sand can be: prograding, receding or stationary develop, erode, and reform as sea level rises comprise foredune some have extensive dune fields --> excess sediment supply some have none TERM 27 Coastal landform DEFINITION 27 acts as a barrier between sea and older landforms TERM 28 sea level rises DEFINITION 28 develop barrier beach, dune, and lagoon system develop, erode, and reform barrier TERM 29 2 major factors of coastal erosion? (70%) DEFINITION 29 sea level rise sediment supply TERM 30 human impact on sediment supply DEFINITION 30 dams, sand mining TERM 31 How can coast be stabilized? DEFINITION 31 breakwaters groins jetties seawalls beach nourishment TERM 32 groins DEFINITION 32 "block" the longshore current, and cause erosion down current- barrier built @ right angle to the beach to trap sand that is moving parallel to the shore TERM 33 Jetties DEFINITION 33 - built in pairs and extend into the ocean @ the entrances to rivers and harbors TERM 34 Breakwaters DEFINITION 34 - to protect boats from the force of large breaking water by creating a quiet water zone near the shore line- result in the desposition of sediment inland of structure TERM 35 Seawall DEFINITION 35 - to armor the coast and defend property from the force of breaking water"literally a wall"
