Egyptian and Roman Clothing: Decorative Motifs, Fabric Production, and Fashion Trends - Pr, Study notes of Production and Operations Management

Download Egyptian and Roman Clothing: Decorative Motifs, Fabric Production, and Fashion Trends - Pr and more Study notes Production and Operations Management in PDF only on Docsity! Chapter 1: Introduction: Foundations of Fashion Change What are some of the functions of clothing? Decoration Modesty Protection Status Magical/ Religious Symbolic/ Ceremonial Supernatural Protection Express Beauty Gender Identity Sexual Attraction Group Member Uniform Age What are the three archetypal clothing designs? Draped Slip-on Tailored What are examples of primary and secondary sources of dress? Primary Anything made or written at the time and place being studied Secondary Objects/ writings created later or in other places What factors influence fashion change? Climate Natural Resources Cultural Contact and Trade Technology Social Conditions Economic Conditions Political Conditions Events Religion Aesthetic Expression and Art Chapter 2: Ancient Middle East What two cultures did we study? Where were they located? Mesopotamia Between the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers Egypt Along the Nile River What was the time span covered? 3500 – 600 BC What was the first culture to develop writing? Sumerians What was the most used fiber in Mesopotamia? In Egypt? Mesopotamia – Wool Egypt – Linen What style of looms were used? Horizontal Ground Loom How was the dress of the wealthy or royalty in Mesopotamia and Egypt different from the common people? Dress was set apart by style, material, elaborate decoration, and emblems of power Shorter, skirt, loincloth, tunics, barefoot = lower class Red, gold jewelry = higher class What were the iconic Egyptian decorative motifs? Scarab = rebirth and sun, beetle Cobra = Lower Egypt, Uraeus Vulture = Upper Egypt Eye of Horus= Moon, Human Eye What was a unique way the Egyptians would perfume themselves? Wax Cones Worn on Head Melt down over wigs Perfume the air Kaunakes Skirts worn by men and women that were probably made of sheepskin with the fleece or fleece like fabric. Fillet Held a chignon in place, another name for a headband Tunic Simple, one piece, and often T-shaped garments with openings for the head and arms Usually long enough to cover the torso, made in different lengths Chiton The tunic of the Greeks Styles of chiton Doric – Later Classic Narrow Ionic – Classical Sharp pins along full arms = banned Hellenistic High Belt What style of looms were used? How did this affect cloth production? Vertical Upright loom Allowed production of very wide cloth Himation A large rectangle of fabric that wrapped around the body Perizoma Greek for a loincloth A garment worn by men either as an undergarment or for athletic contests Phrygian bonnet Brimless caps with a high padded peak that fell forward Petasos Wide brimmed hat that provided shade in summer or kept rain off the head, usually worn with chlamys Chapter 4: Etruria and Rome Where were they located? Italian Peninsula What is their time period? Etruria: 800 – 200 BC Rome: 200 BC – 400 BC What distinction did we make between the chiton and the tunic of the Etruscans? Shorter and less voluminous Sleeves cut and sewn into garment Close fit Less draped and more tailored VS What type of shoe did the Etruscans wear? Sandals Fitted leather shoe Pointed toe Red What happened to the Etruscans? Taken over by the Romans in a revolution What were the two periods of ancient Roman history? The Roman Republic: 509 – 476 AD The Empire: 27 – 476 AD What happened to Pompeii? Volcano Erupted Ash, then rock, then lava covered town Town was then fossilized Great source on information What was unique about the manufacture of Roman fabric and clothing? The had readymade garments No longer a home craft In what ways could the Roman toga tell the status of the wearer? (see table 4.1, page 83) Male and Noble Children wore toga Young Adult wore white Dark and Black was worn by the morning Purple with gold trim was worn for special occasions Necropolis Tombs Way we learn about culture Stuff ruined from the wet climate Tebenna A rounded mantle worn by men and women Curved, and crescent shaped Color bands on long edges Clavi Purple bands on tunics Indicate senators Narrow = knight Chapter 5. Early Middle Ages What time period constitutes the Early Middle Ages? 300 – 1500 How was the Roman Empire divided? What was the difference between the two areas? Byzantine Empire (Eastern Europe) Blend Roman and Eastern Culture Western Europe Blend Roman and Germanic (barbarian) Culture Low literacy and quality of life What textiles did Byzantium become famous for? Sericulture (Silk Production) Were togas worn in the Middle Ages? The use of togas diminished Only worn for ceremonial occasions Eventually just a narrow band How did the Byzantine men layer their tunics? Men wore long, close fitting sleeved under tunic beneath an outer tunic with shorter fuller sleeves What did they wear on their legs? Hose were worn with short tunics Woven Like leggings with no stretch How did the Byzantine women dress? Wore Tunic and Palla Double layered tunics Noble and wealthy wore patterned fabric with jewels Turban like Headdress Cote Under tunic worn by men and women and placed over chemise or shirt Surcote Outer tunic, could have sleeves or be sleeveless with open sides Chapter 6: Later Middle Ages What time period constitutes the Later Middle Ages? 1300 AD – 1500 AD What are sumptuary laws? Why would such a thing exist? Laws which limited clothing styles worn by lower (non-noble) classes Done to make a separation between noble and bourgeoisie What is conspicuous consumption and conspicuous leisure? How can these be shown by a person’s appearance? Conspicuous Consumption The lavish spending on goods and services acquired mainly for the purpose of displaying income or wealth Conspicuous Leisure Forms of leisure that seem to be fully motivated by social factors Why was there a rise of the middle class during this time period? Bourgeoisie Population Decreased because of bad weather which caused a famine and The Plague Lack of work force forced the wages to increase What new invention made it possible for more books to be available beginning in this time period? Paper Manuscripts Romance Stories Prayer Books What new garments were worn by men in this period? Doublet (Pourpoint) Worn over shirt Short Closely Fitted Fitted Sleeves Worn with Hose What was worn as a leg covering? Hose Now joined at top Like leggings What is a hanging sleeve? What is dagging? How do these show conspicuous consumption? Hanging Sleeve Long sleeve slashed at elbow to allow the arm through the sleeve for more movement – On Houppeland Dagging Decorative edging on sleeves and hems, expensive In what ceremony do people still wear a garment like a houppeland? Graduation What does a “sugar loaf” hat look like? High Domed Crown What is a liripipe? Long Tail on Hoods Sometimes with Dagging Head Coverings Chaperon with Liripipe Coif What did wom n w ar in the 14th and 15th centuries? Chemise Gowns: Fitted bodice with tight long sleeves Surcote: Sideless, low neckline Skirt: Long and full Veils and fillets What was the very tall “princess” headdress called? Hennin Usually worn with veil How long were the doublets worn by handsome young Italian men? Short What was worn over the doublet? Houppeland Full and Gathered Long or Short Long Full Sleeves Heavy Luxurious Fabrics Outer Robe Codpiece New hose made peeing hard so the cod piece was invented so that men had a front flap to pee Chapter 7: Italian Renaissance What time period does the Italian Renaissance cover? 1400 AD – 1600 AD What does “renaissance” mean? ReBirth What improved technology made it possible to do world exploration and increased trade? Improved Ships What important continent was “discovered” in 1492? AMERICA What new technology made it possible to produce even more books (thus giving us more sources of information? Printing Press What was the class structure of the Italian Renaissance period? Decrease in Feudalism, Increase in Bourgeoisie (Merchant Prince – Richer than Nobility) Aristocrat – Merchant – Artists – Laborers – Peasants - Slaves Were the aristocracy always the richest ones? No, Merchant Prince How would they keep “commoners” looking like aristocracy? What were some of the limits on their clothing? Guadaroba Two layers for indoors Blackwork Stiffness, rigidity Dark Colors What textile decoration (hint: used as an edging) became popular? Lace Needlepoint Bobbin/ pillow How did the style of doublets change from the Italian Renaissance? Longer peplums after 1540 How were the edges (hems, sleeves) often decorated? Blackwork What was the new style of garment for covering the legs? How were they made to hold their shape? Round, Pumpkin, Melon, or Trunk Hose Extremely full, short, breeches with a puffy upper section Stuffed with wool, horsehair, or bran to add volume What was one way of decorating hose? Slashing To show fine under linen Panes Narrow strips of fabric worn over trunk hose, and attached at the waist and hem What was a collar style worn by both men and women? Ruff Very wide Linen or lace (often lace) Stiff Expensive material and upkeep How did men’s shoes of the Northern Renaissance differ from those of the middle ages? How did the sumptuary laws apply to them? Instead of long shoes the Northern renaissance had flat shoes Duck Bill Square toe Slashed Restricted to 6” wide What was new about the style and silhouette of women’s dresses? Hour- Glass Silhouette Small waistline How did women dress in the first part of the Northern Renaissance? Neckline Square Sleeves Padded Undersleeve Funnel sleeves Skirts Split to show petticoat How were the skirts held out? Farthingale Spanish – stiff frame, cone shaped The silhouette changed in the middle of the 16th century. How was it different, and how was this achieved? Wider hips, elongated, tighter bodice, heavily padded sleeves Off-set skirt width with full sleeves Deep V Stomachers High hair and collar French Farthingale Bum Roll What was the characteristic headdress for women during the Northern Renaissance? Gabled Hood Headdress with peak Fontange High lace cap High Heels No Farthingale Bare Forearms Puffy Sleeves Hair Pulled Back Silhouette Tight bodice and big butt Cravat Long ties, replace collars Plumper Balls of wax to give the face a round shape Rhinegraves (petticoat breeches) Full, Shirt-like, with a ribbon trim Slap sole shoe Flat sole attached only at front Prevented people from sinking into the ground Stomacher Decorated panel worn in front of gown Chapter 10: 18th Century Know the names for the “metros” for the 18th century Beau Coxcomb Fop Macaroni Club What did 18th century men do if they had skinny legs? Artificial calves Banyan Loose fitting robe Worn at home, “undress” Casual wear Chapeau Bras Arm Hats, Folded to be easily carried Also called tricorns or bicorns Ditto Suit Coat, Vest, and Breeches made of the same fabric Engangeantes Muslin or lace removable under sleeve Frock coat Straighter, Functional, Simple Colors, No Pleats, Narrow Sleeves, Minimum decorations Country wear by the upper class Paniers Silhouette changed to having width side-to-side Later replaced by hip pads Pompadours Big Hair that overshadowed dresses Pomade: wheat paste to stiffen hair Robe Anglaise Pleats stitched down to waistline and released waist to hem Boused effect at times Close fit in front and back of bodice Robe Francaise Watteau Gowns Back fullness in box pleats at shoulder and falling loose How did corsets differ from the previous century? Very fashionable women ceased wearing corsets and wore, at most, a lightweight chemise Full + Straight , neck to knees Who were the “Incroyable” and “Mervellieuse” Fashion Extremists with bizarre dress Kashmire shawls So popular Napoleon ended importation Decorated and from India Bonnet Rouge Soft woolen linen cap in red Symbolized clothing of the revolutionaries and freedom Cravats Spencer High waisted jacket with short or long sleeves for women Chapter 12: The Romantic Period What time period is called the “Romantic”? How did it get this name? 1820 – 1850 Applied to the literature, music, graphic art, and dress which emphasized emotion, sentiment, and feeling What was considered the ideal feminine beauty of this time? Frail, circles under the eyes, delicate, pale skin, helpless, childlike, and dying (fainting) What were the two new fashion magazines in this time? Godey’s Lady’s Book and Peterson’s Ladies National Magazine What were Daguerreotypes? Why are they an important source of clothing information? Photographic portraits made famous by Louis Daugerre Record of styles What were the changes to women’s dress during this period? Waist drops, Shoulder line drops, and sleeves and skirts get fuller How did men’s frock coats differ from tail coats? Frock Coat – knee length all around Tail Coat – cut square in front with tails in the back What was the first raincoat? MacIntosh Waterproof rubber coat with produced an odor Leg o’ mutton sleeves Full at shoulder and decreasing to fitted cuff Bertha Shoulder ruffle that accentuates width Pelerine Wide, capelike collards that extended over the shoulders and down across the bosom Chapter 13: Crinoline Period What time span is covered by the Crinoline Period? 1850 - 1870 Who is the queen in England during this time? Queen Victoria What major event in American history occurred during this time? Civil War