The Leather and Fur Industries: Production, Processing, and Trends - Prof. Katalin Medvede, Study notes of Interior Design

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Chapter Seven: Fur and Leather  The Leather Industry: o History  Started as Cottage Industry, but now huge industry in Northeast and is highly specialized o Three types of companies:  Regular tanneries- purchase raw pelts  Contract tanneries- process pelts for other firms  Converters- buy pelts from meat packers, commission tanning to contractors, and sell finished leather o Categories of leather  Cattle (most widespread)- mostly shoe production (all parts of shoes); all merchandise  Sheep and lamb- usually suede (finish NOT type of leather0 for use in shoes and garments  Goat and kid- gloves  Equine- pony skin  Buffalo  Pig and hog- fancy leather goods; shoes and wallets  Deer- extremely soft; dress gloves and moccasins  Kangaroo and wallaby- very strong; used in athletic shoes  Exotic- reptile group is most costly to use (ex- water: frogs, seals, turtles; land: elephants, camels, ostrich; reptile: snakes, alligators, crocodiles) o Leather Processing:  Animal Pelt Categories:  Skins (under 15 lbs)- calves, goats, pigs, deer, sheep  Kips (15-25 lbs)- young horses and cattle  Hides (25 lbs +)- cattle, oxen, buffalo, horses  Tanning Processes (for different finishes (matte, patent, waxy, antiqued, metallic, napped (brushed leather) with some being washable (spongeable))- thickness, moisture, color, and aesthetic appeal)  Minerals- chrome and alum  Vegetable minerals- bark, wood, nuts, tea, leaves  Oils- codfish or other fats (makes them shiny and waterproof)  Chemicals- formaldehyde (makes leather white; used often because leathers are mainly dyed now- into 500 different colors)  Or a combination (usually to recolor something) o Trends:  Leather Industries of America (LIA)  Enlarging markets (new leathers are softer and thinner, greater color range, easy care methods/finishes), increased competition from synthetics (easier to care for, do not scratch, cheaper), increased foreign trade  The Fur Industry o Background:  English nobles wore fur as a sign of power. Ermine (white fur) was often a symbol of innocence. Fur was very important in the economy (trade) and it is said that America would not be here had fur not been integral to the economy (the “fur rush”). In Northern Europe, fur was invaluable (for warmth) and was a form of currency (worth more than gold or silver). Mink  sable  fox (type of fur depends on aesthetics and availability though mink is the absolute number one representing 61% of furs sold in the US and followed by beaver).  Changes in fashion occur much slower in the fur industry due to price  Nutria (rat-like animal) is worn for sport wear  Animals are raised for fur (rather than meat) making them killed for decoration rather than survival which creates a lot of controversy (PETA, ALF…)  95% of the fur in the US comes from farms that are certified “humane”  Strongest argument in favor of fur: faux fur is made from synthetics which are made from petroleum (a non-renewable resource). Other arguments include: species farmed are not endangered  Many countries rely on fur for the economy (such as Canada which has the best animal/human rights efforts)  Because of animal cruelty issues, many designers are against fur (Stella McCartney, Ralph Lauren…) o Organization and Operation  Pelt production: majority come from fur farms but also from fur auctions (most famous in England, Scandinavia, Russia, Tokyo, Beijing, Canada… whether the climates are cold typically). At auctions, fur is sold in bundles for better matching (takes numerous pelts to make a coat)  Fur processing: fur dressers and dyers (wash it, pluck unwanted hair, dye the fur. Not very high quality fur can be stenciled). Mostly done by small, independent manufacturers in the US.  Fur manufacturing: NYC fur district is on 7th avenue between 23rd and 30th street in Manhattan. Typically a coat made by hand (very rarely is it mass produced) has ten miles of thread and 1,200 staples. Fendi revolutionized the process in 1989  Mom and Pop retailers- 85% of industry is run by these retailers/ The line between manufacturing and retailing is hazy  Chain Retailers:  Leased departments- Macy’s for example (the fur department is not owned by Macy’s but in fact leased to someone else)  Consignment selling- lends furs to retailers to sell (get them back if they don’t sell)  Wholly owned- Neiman Marcus for example. The store owns their own fur department (about 8% are consignment)  FICA maintains standards? o Maintaining Quality  Trade Associations, gender of fur, Fur Products Labeling Act of 1952 (requirements under the Act: English name of the animal, country of origin, type of processing, mixed quality furs)  1987 was the highest point in Fur sales at $2 billion (linked to women’s rising power during the decade). Currently the industry is about $1.8 billion. Younger and younger generations are purchasing fur (no longer a matronly item) o Trends  Renewed fashion interest: working women, new merchandise categories, and designer interest  Increased foreign trade: great variety and quality reputation, Russia and China, NYC Fur Fashion week (1995)  Restrictive legislation (endangered species)  New channels of distribution (pop-up stores) Video:  Each designer has a specific role to fulfill for his or her company. Some have free range while others are restricted