Hand and Power Tools: Use, Care, and Safety, Study notes of Construction

Download Hand and Power Tools: Use, Care, and Safety and more Study notes Construction in PDF only on Docsity! CHAPTER 2 GENERAL MAINTENANCE EQUIPMENT As an ABF, you are routinely assigned tasks requiring the use of hand or power tools. It is to your advantage to become familiar with the tools you will use to accomplish these tasks. The right tool for the right job is an old, but time proven, proverb. SAFETY is paramount when you are using tools— power or hand operated. Special care should be used with all wood or metal cutting tools. Eye goggles must be in place before cutting tools are used. Power tools are more dangerous than nonpowered tools. Use power tools only if you are familiar with them and have been checked out on their use and proper operation by a competent authority. Tools and Their Uses, NAVEDTRA 10085-B2, contains more detailed information on the various tools the ABF will use. COMMON HAND TOOLS LEARNING OBJECTIVES: Identify the common hand tools used by the ABF. Explain the use and care of hand tools. Figure 2-1 illustrates some of the hand tools discussed in this section. All hand tools have a specific Figure 2-1.—Common hand tools. 2-1 purpose and should be used only on the objects they are designed for. When you use a hand tool for other purposes, you usually damage both the tool and the object it is used on. Use screwdrivers to drive and remove screws. Do not use them to scrape paint, as a pry bar or chisel, and certainly never use them to test an electrical circuit. STANDARD SCREW DRIVER Three main parts make up the construction of the standard screwdriver (fig. 2-1, view A), the handle, the shank, and the end. The end (called the blade) fits into the screw slot. When using a screwdriver, select the proper size blade for the job intended. A blade too large or too small causes the screwdriver blade and the screwhead to become damaged. At least 75 per- cent of the screw slot should be filled by the blade for proper fit. PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWDRIVER A Phillips head screwdriver (fig. 2-1, view B) differs in construction from a standard screwdriver only in that the tip is shaped to fit the special cavity in the Phillips screwhead. A standard screwdriver must never be used in a Phillips screwhead as damage will occur to it. The Phillips cavity should be filled com- pletely by the selected driver for proper fit. HAMMER The hammer (fig. 2-1. view G) most used by the ABF is the ball peen. The ball peen hammer is used for working metals, such as chiseling rivets and shear- ing metal. COMBINATION PLIERS Combination pliers (fig. 2-1, view C) are manu- factured with straight serrated jaws for gripping ob- jects. The pivots, with which the jaws are attached, are adjustable to fit different size objects. Pliers should not be used to grasp the shanks of screwdrivers to gain greater twisting force. DIAGONAL PLIERS Diagonal pliers (fig. 2-1, view D) are used only for cutting small material such as wire or cotter pins. They are designed specifically for cutting. They should NOT be used for grasping objects such as nuts and bolts. ADJUSTABLE WRENCHES An adjustable wrench (fig. 2-1, view E) is not intended to replace an open-end wrench, but it is useful in working in restricted areas. In addition, it can be adjusted to fit odd-sized nuts or bolts. This wrench is often called a knuckle buster because me- chanics frequently suffer the consequences of using it improperly. PIPE WRENCHES A pipe wrench (fig. 2-1, view F) is primarily used for rotating round stock and/or various pipes and pip- ing. The most common pipe wrench is the Stillson. It has two jaws that have serrated teeth to provide a gripping ability. The larger jaw is a fixed jaw. The smaller jaw is adjustable and the weaker of the two jaws. Whenever a Stillson wrench is used, it should be applied in such a manner that the fixed jaw provides the twisting force. These wrenches also come in vary- ing lengths, which makes the jaw sizes vary. A Still- son wrench should never be used on machined surfaces, as the teeth tend to mar or otherwise ruin the metal. The strap wrench (fig. 2-2) should be used instead of a Stillson to eliminate damage to soft metals. The strap wrench employs a heavy nylon strap. One end is attached to the wrench handle. while the other end is free to pass around the object to be rotated, and then back through the locking device provided on the wrench handle. SPANNER WRENCHES Many special nuts are made with notches cut into their outer edge. For these nuts a hook spanner Figure 2-2.—Strap wrench. 2-2 Socket Handles There are four types of handles used with these sockets. (See fig. 2-5) Each type has special advan- tages, and the experienced worker chooses the one suited for the job at hand. The square driving lug on the socket wrench handles has a spring-loaded ball that fits into a recess in the socket receptacle. This mated ball-recess feature keeps the socket engaged with the drive lug during normal usage. A slight pull on the socket, however, disassembles the connection. RATCHET.— The ratchet handle has a reversing lever that operates a pawl (or dog) inside the head of the tool. Pulling the handle in one direction causes the pawl to engage in the ratchet teeth and turn the socket. Moving the handle in the opposite direction causes the pawl to slide over the teeth, permitting the handle to back up without moving the socket. This allows rapid turning of the nut or bolt after each partial turn of the handle. With the reversing lever in one position, the handle is used for tightening. In the other position, it is used for loosening. HINGED HANDLE.— The hinged handle is also very convenient. To loosen tight nuts, swing the han- dle at right angles to the socket. This gives the greatest possible leverage. After loosening the nut to the point where it turns easily, move the handle into the vertical position, and then turn the handle with the fingers. SLIDING T-BAR HANDLE.— When using the sliding bar or T-handle, the head can be positioned anywhere along the sliding bar. Select the position that is needed for the job at hand. SPEED HANDLE.— The speed handle is worked like the wood-worker’s brace. After the nuts are first loosened with the sliding bar handle or the ratchet handle, the speed handle can be used to re- move the nuts more quickly. In many instances the speed handle is not strong enough to be used for breaking loose or tightening the nut. The speed socket wrench should be used carefully to avoid damaging the nut threads. Accessories To complete the socket wrench set, there are sev- eral accessory items. Extension bars of different lengths are made to extend the distance from the socket to the handle. A universal joint allows the nut to be turned with the wrench handle at an angle. Universal sockets are also available. The use of uni- versal joints, bar extensions, and universal sockets in combination with appropriate handles makes it possi- ble to form a variety of tools that will reach otherwise inaccessible nuts and bolts. Another accessory item is an adapter that allows you to use a handle having one size of drive and a socket having a different size drive. For example, a 3/8- by 1/4-inch adapter makes it possible to turn all 1/4-inch square drive sockets with any 3/8-inch square drive handle. HACKSAW The hacksaw is a handy portable metal cutting tool that can be used for cutting sheet metal, bolts, and pipe. A hacksaw cuts on the push stroke only; the blade should be installed in the frame with the teeth facing away from the handle. Figure 2-1, view H, shows two types of hacksaws with the blade in the proper position. CHISELS Chisels are tools that can be used for chipping or cutting metal. They will cut any metal that is softer than the materials of which they are made. Chisels are made from a good grade tool steel and have a hard- ened cutting edge and beveled head. Cold chisels are classified according to the shape of their points, and the width of the cutting edge denotes their size. The most common shapes of chisels are flat (cold chisel), cape, round nose, and diamond point (fig. 2-7). Figure 2-7.—Types of points on metal cutting chisels. 2-5 The type of chisel most commonly used is the flat cold chisel, which serves to cut rivets, split nuts, chip castings, and thin metal sheets. The cape chisel is used for special jobs like cutting keyways, narrow grooves, and square corners. Round-nose chisels make circular grooves and chip inside corners with a fillet. Finally, the diamond-point is used for cutting V-grooves and sharp comers. As with other tools there is a correct technique for using a chisel. Select a chisel that is large enough for the job. Be sure to use a hammer that matches the chisel; that is, the larger the chisel, the heavier the hammer. A heavy chisel will absorb the blows of a light hammer and will do virtually no cutting. As a general rule, hold the chisel in the left hand with the thumb and first finger about 1-inch from the top. It should be held steadily but not tightly. The finger muscles should be relaxed, so if the hammer strikes the hand it will permit the hand to slide down the tool and lessen the effect of the blow. Keep the eyes on the cutting edge of the chisel, not on the head, and swing the hammer in the same plane as the body of the chisel. If you have a lot of chiseling to do, slide a piece of rubber hose over the chisel. This will lessen the shock to your hand. When using a chisel for chipping, always wear goggles to protect your eyes. If other personnel are working close by, ensure they are protected from flying chips by erecting a screen or shield to contain the chips. Remember that the time to take these precautions is before you start the job. FILES A toolkit for nearly every rating in the Navy is not complete unless it contains an assortment of files. There are several different types of files in common use, and each type may range in length from 3 to 18 inches. Grades Files are graded according to the degree of fineness and according to whether they have single or double-cut teeth. The difference is apparent when you compare the files in figure 2-8, view A. Single-cut files have rows of teeth cut parallel to each other. These teeth are set at an angle of about 65 degrees with the center line. You will use single-cut files for sharpening tools, finish filing, and drawfiling. They also are the best tools for smoothing the edges of sheet metal. Files with crisscrossed rows of teeth are double- cut files. The double cut forms teeth that are diamond-shaped and fast cutting. You will use double-cut files for quick removal of metal and for rough work. Figure 2-8.—File descriptions. 2-6 Files are also graded according to the spacing and size of their teeth, or their coarseness and fineness. Some of these grades are pictured in figure 2-8, view B. In addition to the three grades shown, you may use some DEAD SMOOTH files, which have very fine teeth, and some ROUGH files with very coarse teeth. The fineness or coarseness of file teeth is also influ- enced by the length of the file. The length of a file is the distance from the tip to the heel, and does not include the tang (fig. 2-8, view C). When you have a chance, compare the actual size of the teeth of a 6-inch, single-cut smooth file and a 12-inch, single-cut smooth file. You will notice the 6-inch file has more teeth per inch than the 12-inch file. Shapes Files come in different shapes. Therefore, in se- lecting a file for a job, the shape of the finished work must be considered. Some of the cross-sectional shapes are shown in figure 2-8, view D. TRIANGULAR files are tapered (longitudinally) on all three sides. They are used to file acute internal angles and to clear out square comers. Special trian- gular files are used to file saw teeth. MILL files are tapered in both width and thick- ness. One edge has no teeth and is known as a SAFE EDGE. Mill files are used for smoothing lathe work, drawfiling, and other fine, precision work. Mill files are always single-cut. FLAT files are general-purpose files and may be either single- or double-cut. They are tapered in width and thickness. HARD files, not shown, are somewhat thicker than flat files. They taper slightly in thickness, but their edges are parallel. The flat or hard files most often used are the double-cut for rough work and the single-cut, smooth file for finish work. SQUARE files are tapered on all four sides and are used to enlarge rectangular-shaped holes and slots. ROUND files serve the same purpose for round openings. Small, round files are often called “rattail” files. The HALF ROUND file is a general-purpose tool. The rounded side is used for curved surfaces and the flat face on flat surfaces. When you file an inside curve use a round or half round file whose curve most nearly matches the curve of the work. Kits of small files, often called Swiss pattern or jewelers files, are used to fit parts of delicate mecha- nisms and for filing work on instruments. Handle these small files carefully because they break easily. TAPS AND DIES Taps and dies are used to cut threads in metal, plastics, or hard rubber. The taps are used for cutting internal threads, and the dies are used to cut external threads. There are many different types of taps. However, the most common are the taper, plug, bot- toming, and pipe taps (fig. 2-9). The taper (starting) hand tap has a chamfer length of 8 to 10 threads. These taps are used when starting a tapping operation and when tapping through boles. Plug hand taps have a chamfer length of 3 to 5 threads and are designed for use after the taper tap. Bottoming hand taps are used for threading the bottom of a blind hole. They have a very short cham- fer length of only 1 to 1 1/2 threads for this purpose. This tap is always used after the plug tap has already Figure 2-9.—Types of common taps. 2-7 bolts. Figure 2-14 illustrates a typical threading set for pipe, bolts, and screws. Never attempt to sharpen taps or dies. Sharpening of taps and dies involves several highly precise cutting processes that involve the thread characteristics and chamfer. These sharpening procedures must be done by experienced personnel to maintain the accuracy and the cutting effectiveness of taps and dies. Keep taps and dies clean and well oiled when not in use. Store them so they do not contact each other or other tools. For long periods of storage, coat taps and dies with a rust-preventive compound, place in individual or standard threading set boxes, and store in a dry place. SCREW AND TAP EXTRACTORS Screw extractors are used to remove broken screws without damaging the surrounding material Figure 2-14.—Threading sets. or the threaded hole. Tap extractors are used to remove broken taps. Some tap extractors (fig. 2-15, view A) are straight, having flutes from end to end. These extrac- tors are available in sizes to remove broken screws having 1/4- to 1/2-inch outside diameters (O.D.). Spi- ral tapered extractors (fig. 2-15, view B) are sized to remove screws and bolts from 3/16-inch to 2 1/8- inches O. D.. Most sets of extractors include twist drills and a drill guide. Tap extractors are similar to the screw extractors and are sized to remove taps ranging from 3/16- to 2 1/8-inches O. D.. To remove a broken screw or tap with a spiral extractor, first drill a hole of proper size in the screw or tap. The size hole required for each screw extractor is stamped on it. The extractor is then inserted in the hole and turned counterclockwise to remove the de- fective component. If the tap has broken off at the surface of the work, or slightly below the surface of the work, the straight tap extractor shown in figure 2-15, view A, may re-move it. Apply a liberal amount of penetrating oil to the broken tap. Place the tap extractor over the broken tap and lower the upper collar to insert the four sliding Figure 2-15.—Screw and tap extractors. 2-10 prongs down into the four flutes of the tap. Then slide the bottom collar down to the surface of the work so it will hold the prongs tightly against the body of the extractor. Tighten the tap wrench on the square shank of the extractor and carefully work the extractor back and forth to loosen the tap. It may be necessary to remove the extractor and strike a few sharp blows with a small hammer and pin punch to jar the tap loose. Then reinsert the tap remover and carefully try to back the tap out of the hole. Figure 2-16.—Pipe and tubing cutters. PIPE AND TUBING CUTTERS AND FLARING TOOLS Pipe cutters (fig. 2-16) are used to cut pipe made of steel, brass, copper, wrought iron, and lead. Tube cutters (fig. 2-16) are used to cut tubing made of iron, steel, brass, copper, and aluminum. The essential dif- ference between pipe and tubing is that tubing has considerably thinner walls. Flaring tools (fig. 2-17) are used to make single or double flares in the ends of tubing. Two sizes of hand pipe cutters are generally used in the Navy. The No. 1 pipe cutter has a cutting capacity of 1/8 to 2 inches, and the No. 2 pipe cutter has a cutting capacity of 2 to 4 inches. The pipe cutter has a special alloy-steel cutting wheel and two pres- sure rollers that are adjusted and tightened by turning the handle. Most tube cutters closely resemble pipe cutters, except they are of lighter construction. A hand screw feed tubing cutter of 1/8-inch to 1 1/4-inch capacity has two rollers with cutouts located off center so that cracked flares may be held in them and cut off without waste of tubing. It also has a retractable cutter blade that is adjusted by turning a knob. The other tube cutter shown is designed to cut tubing up to and including 3/4- and 1-inch O.D. Rotation of the trian- gular portion of the tube cutter within the tubing will eliminate any burrs. Flaring tools are used to flare soft copper, brass, or aluminum. The single flaring tool consists of a split Figure 2-17.—Flaring tools. 2-11 die block that has holes for 3/16-, 1/4-, 5/16-, 3/8-, 7/16-, and 1/2-inch O.D. tubing, and a clamp to lock the tube in the die block. It also has a yoke that slips over the die block and has a compressor screw and a cone that forms a 45-degree flare or a bell shape on the end of the tube. The screw has a T-handle. A double flaring tool has the additional feature of adapt- ers that turn in the edge of the tube before a regular 45-degree double flare is made. It consists of a die block with holes for 3/16-, 1/4-, 5/16-, 3/8-, and 1/2- inch tubing, a yoke with a screw and a flaring cone, plus five adapters for different size tubing, all carried in a metal case. CARE OF HAND TOOLS Tools are expensive, vital equipment. When the need for their use arises, common sense plus a little preventive maintenance prolongs their usefulness. The following precautions for the care of tools should be observed: 1. Clean tools after each use. Oily, dirty, and greasy tools are slippery and dangerous. 2. NEVER hammer with a wrench. 3. NEVER leave tools scattered about. When not in use, stow them neatly on racks or in toolboxes. 4. Apply a light film of oil after cleaning to prevent rust on tools. 5. Inventory tools after use to prevent loss. TACKLE A tackle is an assembly of blocks and ropes used to gain a mechanical advantage in lifting or pulling. Figure 2-18 shows the name and location of various main parts of a tackle. In working with tackle, it helps you to understand the meaning of a few simple terms you hear used. The term fall means a rope, either manila or wire, reeved through a pair of blocks to form a tackle. The hauling part is the part of the fall leading from one of the blocks upon which the power is exerted. The standing part is the end of the fall of the blocks. The movable (or running) block of a tackle is the block attached to the object to be moved. The fixed (or standing) block is the block attached to a fixed object or support. When a tackle is being used, the movable block moves up and down and the fixed block remains stationary. The mechanical advantage of a tackle is the term applied to the relationship between the load being lifted and the power required to lift that load. Thus, if a load Figure 2-18.—Parts of a tackle. of 10 pounds requires 10 pounds of power to lift it, the mechanical advantage is 1. However, if a load of 50 pounds requires only 10 pounds to lift it, then you have a mechanical advantage of 5 to 1, or 5 units of weight are lifted for each unit of power applied. The easiest way to determine the mechanical advan- tage of a tackle is by counting the number of parts of the falls at the movable (or running) block. If there are two parts, the mechanical advantage is two times the power applied (less friction). A gun tackle, for instance, has a mechanical advantage of 2. Thus, to lift a 200- pound load with a gun tackle requires 100 pounds of power, disregarding friction. By inverting any tackle, a mechanical advantage of 1 is always gained because the number of parts at the movable block is increased. By inverting a gun tackle (fig. 2-19) a mechanical advantage of 3 is attained. When a tackle is inverted, the direction of pull is diffi- cult. This can be easily overcome by adding a snatch block, which changes the direction of pull, but does not increase the mechanical advantage. 2-12 Figure 2-23.—Jubilee pipe patches. In addition to the repair or patching of piping, certain materials are included in the kit that may be used to patch small cracks and ruptures in flat metal surfaces. Materials in the kit may be obtained separately through appropriate supply channels whenever a need arises to replace them. You need not obtain another completely new kit. A complete kit contains the fol- lowing materials: 4 cans of liquid resin, 400 grams each 4 cans of liquid hardener, 100 grams each 4 cans of paste resin, 300 grams each 4 cans of paste hardener, 75 grams each 1 piece of woven roving cloth 24” x 10” 1 piece of void cover, 8” x 36” 1 piece of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film, 36” x 72” 1 chalk line, 1/8-lb 4 pairs of gloves 2 eyeshields 4 wooden spatulas A description of the basic materials and factors related to plastics is necessary for you to more thor- oughly understand the discussion of the kit and its use. RESINS AND HARDENERS.— The liquid and paste resins are of the epoxy type. The liquid and paste hardeners are chemical compounds used to harden the resins. The resins and the hardeners are packaged in premeasured amounts. For proper mix- ture and better results, the complete contents of the hardener in the smaller can should be mixed with the complete contents of the resin in the larger can. CAUTION Do not mix hardener with resin until all preparations have been completed, and do not intermix liquid resin and paste hardener or paste resin and liquid hardener. When the hardeners and the resins are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs that causes the mixture to harden (liquid mixture, approximately 12 minutes; paste mixture, approximately 17 minutes). VOID COVERS.— The void cover is resin- treated glass cloth that can be cut and formed to cover the damaged area and is sufficiently rigid to give support to the patch. WOVEN ROVING CLOTH.— The woven rov- ing cloth is made of a short staple glass fiber woven into a thick, fluffy cloth. During the application of a plastic patch, this cloth is coated with the resin-hard- ener mixture and either wrapped around or placed over the damaged area. The glass cloth provides the main strength of the patch and also provides a means of applying the resin-hardener mixture. FILM (PVC).— The plastic film is a thin, trans- parent polyvinyl chloride material that is used as a separating film for the flat patch to prevent the patch from sticking to the backup plate or other supports. It is called PVC. In the pipe patch it is used to cover the entire patch and keep the activated resin around the patch. Kraft wrapping paper may be used as a substi- tute if necessary. 1 sheet of emery cloth, 9” x 11” Chemical Reaction of the Plastic Patch 1 pair of scissors 4 tongue depressors When the resins and the hardeners are mixed to- gether, a chemical reaction begins. This reaction is 1 instruction manual exothermic, meaning heat is given off. For about 12 2-15 to 17 minutes the temperature increases gradually until it reaches 120° to 135°F. Then a sudden, sharp increase in temperature occurs until it reaches its peak at or about 350°F. This sudden, sharp rise in tempera- ture is known as kick-over. At this temperature, the resin-hardener mixture begins to solidify and change color from gray to light brown. The peak temperature (350°F) can be observed through the external change of the patch. The resin-hardener mixture begins to cool slowly because the materials conduct heat poorly. After kick- over, the mixture continues to harden and increase in strength. This process is called curing. Approximately 30 minutes after kick-over (the sharp rise in tempera- ture), the patch is strong and hard and cool enough to use. Pressure should not be restored to the system until the patch has cured. The patch is considered sufficiently cured when the bare hand can be placed on it without discomfort from heat. Several factors contribute to the control of kick- over. The most important factor is the temperature. Both the initial temperature of the activated resin mixture and the temperature of the atmosphere affect the kick-over time. Of these two temperatures, the initial temperature of the activated resin has the greater effect. When the temperature of the resin and the hardener before mixing is increased, the kickover time decreases. Conversely, when the temperature of the resin and hardener before mixing decreases, the kick-over time increases. A knowledge of the control of kick-over is neces- sary since it corresponds to the application of working time. This means, for example, that when the initial temperature of the mixture is 73°F, the patching ma- terial must be placed over the rupture within 12 min- utes. Once the resin and the hardener are mixed, the chemical reaction cannot be stopped. Therefore, the patch should be completely applied before kick-over occurs. Figure 2-24 shows the relationship of the kick- over time to the resin temperature. If you know the resin temperature at the time of mixing, you are able to determine the amount of time available to apply the patch before kick-over occurs. You can see in figure 2-24 that if the resin temperature is 80°F (point A), the kick-over will occur in less time than if the resin temperature were 60°F (point B). The difference in resin temperatures represents an application working time of 9 minutes instead of 18 minutes. NOTE If the initial resin temperature exceeds 80°F, the temperature should be reduced by artificial means to 73°F before mixing. This lowering of the temperature allows for addi- tional application working time. Advantages of the Plastic Patch From the damage control viewpoint, the main advantages of the plastic patch are (1) versatility, (2) simplicity, (3) effectiveness, (4) speed of application, and (5) durability. The plastic patch can be successfully applied to a variety of damaged surfaces, whether with smooth edges or jagged protruding edges. Since the plastic has excellent adhesive qualities, it can be readily ap- plied to steel, cast iron, copper, copper-nickel, brass, bronze, and galvanized metals. It is easy to prepare the plastic materials and to apply the plastic patch. By following the instructions outlined in the instruction manual that is included in the kit, anyone with little or no experience can readily prepare the materials and apply a plastic patch. A plastic patch is applied in much the same way as a battle dressing is used in first aid. If the materials are properly prepared and the application procedures are followed, the plastic patch will be 100 percent effective. If leakage occurs through a plastic patch, it is likely that propr prepa- ration and application procedures have not been fol- lowed. The speed of application varies somewhat with the size and type of rupture, and with local working conditions. When proper preparation procedures are followed, a simple patch can be applied to a 4-inch pipe by an inexperienced crew who have had the minimum amount of training and indoctrination in 10 minutes or less. The type and the size of the rupture or the shape and the size of the structure to which the patch is applied do not materially affect the time involved in patching, but some types of damage may require more initial preparation. The maximum period of effectiveness of a plastic patch is not known, but all indications are that a properly applied patch can last indefinitely or cer- tainly until permanent repairs can be made. The patch is relatively inert, being seriously affected only by excessive heat and concentrated acids. 2-16 Figure 2-24.—Resin temperature vs kick-over time. Application of Plastic Patches In the following discussion on applying different types of plastic patches (simple, elbow, severed, and others) you can readily see that as the individual patch materials are applied, the patch becomes progressively wider. The sketch in figure 2-25 shows the relative positions of the patch materials to one another. The buildup in the patch length during application must be considered in initially determining the length of the patch to be applied. Where suitable, allow the patch to extend at least 4 to 5 inches on either side of the rupture. In addition to the size of the rupture, the width of the patch also may depend upon the location of the rupture in the pipe system. For example, an elbow rupture may require a patch of greater width than the same size rupture would require in a straight section of pipe. Complete application instructions are in- cluded in each kit. Figure 2-25.—Sequence of applied patch materials. PREPARATION.— Before you actually apply the plastic patch, you must make the following prepa- rations: 1. Secure or isolate the ruptured area in the piping system. 2. Remove all lagging. 3. Clean the area around the rupture and remove all grease, oil, dirt, paint, and other foreign matter. If grease or oil is present, use an approved solvent to clean around the rupture. If no approved solvent is available, scrape and wipe the surface until it is clean. When a clean surface is obtained, the surface may be further abraded for better adhesion. An abrasive cloth is fur- nished with the kit. 4. Ensure that all moisture and fuel are removed from the inside of the piping and the entire pipe surface is dry. 5. Where practical, the rupture should be simpli- fied by bending or removing irregular projections. This may be done by cutting or burring. CAUTION Ensure no explosive conditions exist be- fore you use spark-producing tools or burring equipment. 6. Determine the amount of materials required, such as the amount of woven roving cloth as well as the 2-17 material should be cut so it extends at least 2 inches on either side of the gap and should be long enough to provide one complete turn around the pipe with a pos- sible overlap of about 2 inches. Secure the substitute material with the chalk line. 2. Cut the woven roving cloth so it extends at least 4 inches beyond the edges of the bridge material. Im- pregnate the cloth with the resin/hardener mixture. Wrap the cloth around the bridge materials and tie it securely as you did for the simple pipe patch. 3. Apply the PVC film and tie it securely with the chalk line as you did for the simple pipe patch. Corn pound Patch.— When you are making re- pairs resulting from battle damage to piping systems, the compound-type rupture, as shown in figure 2-29, is the one you get most often. Since compound rup- tures may take a variety of shapes, it becomes difficult to select a single example to fit all repairs. In most compound ruptures, it should be possible to simplify the rupture by removing butterfly edges or by cutting away the damaged section to form either a severed pipe or a simple pipe repair. When the butterfly edges or other projections cannot be removed by pounding in, cutting, or burning, a simple pipe patch may be applied with the following modifications: 1. Tie the chalk line firmly between the jagged edges (view B of fig. 2-29) crisscrossing as much as possible. This chalk line acts as a support for the woven roving cloth and keeps it from falling into the void. No void cover is used in this example as it would be impractical to cut a void cover to suit the jagged edges shown in view A of figure 2-29. 2. A small piece of impregnated woven roving cloth (view C of fig. 2-29) is folded and laid in the void where it helps to build up the mass and acts as an insulator. 3. Apply the woven roving cloth (view D of fig. 2-29) cut to the appropriate length and width over the small folded piece of woven roving cloth, and tie it firmly as outlined previously for the simple pipe patch. Flange Patch.— The flange patch (fig. 2-30) is also applied similarly to the simple pipe patch, but it has some modifications in the application procedure. 1. As illustrated in view B of figure 2-30, the void cover is cut into an H shape, impregnated with the resin-hardener mixture, inserted into the void, and tied securely in place. Figure 2-29.—Compound rupture patch, edges not removed. 2. Four pieces of woven roving cloth are cut long enough to make one complete turn around the pipe and overlap 1 inch. These four pieces of woven roving cloth are cut in an H shape, but the center pieces are not cut away. Instead, they are folded up over the edges of the flange. 3. Impregnate the separate pieces of woven roving cloth with the resin-hardener mixture and place over the rupture, as shown in view C of figure 2-30. 4. Apply the PVC film and tie down firmly, start- ing at one end and working up to the flange. Make several windings through the gap in the flange in the 2-20 Figure 2-30.—Flange rupture patch. shape of an X to have the woven roving cloth conform to the center of the rupture and the flange edges. Con- tinue to the opposite end of the patch and tie securely in place. SAFETY RULES.— The following safety pre- cautions should be observed by all personnel when they are working with plastic materials: 1. Provide forced intake and exhaust ventilation; this is particularly important when heat and resultant fumes are given off. 2. Wear long-sleeved coveralls, long-sleeved neo- prene gloves, knee-high rubber boots, and goggles. 3. Immediately relieve and treat anyone evidenc- ing sensitization. 4. Wash hands frequently. (Personal cleanliness is your most important and effective protection.) 5. Do not expose yourself to or breathe the noxious fumes given off during cure. 6. Avoid spilling plastic materials. Keep kraft pa- per in areas where material is likely to spill or drip. 7. Keep the resin and liquid hardener off skin areas, wherever possible. Use protective ointment. If contaminated, remove material as soon as possible, using soap and hot water. 8. Keep the resin and liquid hardener out of the eyes. If contaminated, immediately flush with water for at least 15 minutes and obtain medical treatment. 9. Wash gloves and goggles immediately after each use with a good detergent. Aboard ship, these precautions should be taken as far as possible but not to such an extent as to delay vital repair measures. Reasonable care in the handling of materials and thorough washing after their use should suffice. Since it appears that resins and liquid hardeners do not have primary irritant qualities, they maybe used aboard ship without any trouble, except a possible rare case of sensitivity. An ideal plastic patch is one that can be applied and cured in the shortest time possible and maintains the desired tightness. The primary factor controlling kick-over time is the temperature of the resin and hardener before mixing. To effect the cure in the shortest time possible, you must contain the heat gen- erated in the patch. This is done by creating a mass about the break in the pipe or bulkhead rupture by using an impregnated woven roving cloth. You can see that the correct amount of mass is necessary to have an effective patch. It is also important that the patch cool readily, for you cannot restore pressure to the system until the patch cools to about 150°F. The net result is that you buildup a mass about the rupture that gives you the patch with the most desirable char- acteristics in the shortest time possible. 2-21 PORTABLE POWER TOOLS LEARNING OBJECTIVES: Identify portable power tools used by the ABF. Explain the use and care of power tools. State the safety precau- tions required when using power tools. ABFs are frequently required to use portable power tools in the maintenance of assigned areas that are exposed to the weather. Power tools, when used properly and efficiently, are an enormous time and manpower saver, especially when a large painted or rusted surface requires scaling and represervation. Before using electric portable tools, be sure the proper voltage is supplied. This information can be found Figure 2-31.—Portable electric sander. on the nameplate permanently attached to the tool. Electric tools of all types used in the Navy are re- quired to have a proper ground capability. If doubt exists whether or not a good ground has been estab- lished, request the services of an Electrician’s Mate to check it out before applying power to the tool. NEVER VARY the manufacturer’s recommended voltage. SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT. When pneumatic tools are used, the air supply pressure specified on the nameplate should always be maintained. Insufficient air pressure causes the tool to function improperly. Excessive air pressure results in damage to the tool and the person operating the tool may not be able to control it properly. REMEMBER that tools can cut through rust, paint, metal, arms, and legs. Give your full attention while operating any power tool and never distract anyone who is using power equipment. PORTABLE ELECTRIC DRILL The electric drill is a versatile item of equipment. It is probably used more than any other portable elec- tric tool. It can be used for drilling holes in wood or metals, mixing paint, and buffing small items with the proper attachments, as well as a variety of other uses. The average size electric drill has a 1/4-inch ca- pacity, with a three-fingered chuck tightened with a chuck key. The chuck key is usually taped to the electric cord about 18 inches from the drill itself to allow it to be used in the chuck without being re- moved from the cord. Heavier drills are larger in appearance and weight but have larger motors and Figure 2-32.—Pneumatic chipping hammer. 2-22 Figure 2-36.—Nomenclature of an outside micrometer. The sleeve and thimble scales of a micrometer every time the thimble completes a revolution, the (fig. 2-37) have been enlarged and laid out for demon- strational purposes. To understand these scales you need to know that the threaded section on the spindle, which revolves, has 40 threads per inch. Therefore, Figure 2-37.—Sleeve and thimble scales of a micrometer. spindle advances or recedes 1/40 inch or 0.025 inch. Note the horizontal line on the sleeve is divided into 40 equal parts per inch. Every fourth graduation is numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, and so on, representing 0.100 inch, 0.200 inch, and so on. When you turn the thim- ble so its edge is over the first sleeve line past the 0 on the thimble scale, the spindle has opened 0.025 inch. If you turn the spindle to the second mark, it has moved 0.025 inch plus 0.025 inch or 0.050 inch. When the beveled edge of the thimble stops be- tween graduated lines on the sleeve scale, you must use the thimble scale to complete your reading. The thimble scale is divided into 25 equal parts; each part or mark represents 1/25 of a turn. And 1/25 of 0.025 inch equals 0.001 inch. Note in figure 2-37, every fifth line on the thimble scale is marked 5, 10, 15, and so on. The thimble scale permits you to take very accurate readings to the thousandths of an inch. The thimble is turned far enough to expose the 7 on the sleeve scale, but not far enough to expose the first mark after the 7. Therefore, the measurement must be between 0.700 inch and 0.725 inch. Exactly how far between 0.700 inch and 0.725 inch must be read on the thimble scale. 2-25 The enlarged scale in figure 2-38 can help you understand how to take a complete micrometer read- ing to the nearest thousandth of an inch. As you can see, the thimble has been turned through 12 spaces of its scale, and the 12th graduation is lined up with the reference line on the sleeve. When the value on the sleeve scale is added to the value on the thimble scale that is lined up with the reference line on the sleeve scale, the space between the anvil and spindle must be 0.712 inch (seven hundred and twelve-thousandths of an inch). Occasionally you attain a reading in which the horizontal reference line of the sleeve scale falls be- tween two graduations on the thimble scale, as shown in figure 2-39. Note the horizontal reference line is closer to the 15 mark than the 14 mark. To read this measurement to THREE decimal places, simply round off to the 15 mark as shown in example A of figure 2-39. To read this measurement to FOUR deci- mal places, estimate the number of tenths of the dis- tance between thimble scale graduations the horizontal reference line has fallen. Each tenth of this distance equals one ten-thousandth (0.0001) of an inch. Add the ten-thousandths to the reading as shown in example B of figure 2-39. Reading the Vernier Scale on a Micrometer Many times you are required to work to excep- tionally precise dimensions. Under these conditions it is better to use a micrometer that is accurate to ten- thousandths of an inch. This degree of accuracy is obtained by the addition of a vernier scale. The vernier scale of a micrometer (fig. 2-40) fur- nishes the fine readings between the lines on the Figure 2-38.—Enlarged micrometer scale. Figure 2-39.—Estimating a micrometer reading. thimble rather than requiring you to interpolate (or estimate) the reading. The 10 spaces on the vernier are equivalent to 9 spaces on the thimble. Therefore, each unit on the vernier scale is equal to 0.0009 inch and the difference between the sizes of the units on each scale is 0.0001 inch. When a line on the thimble scale does not coin- cide with the horizontal reference line on the sleeve, you can determine the additional spaces beyond the readable thimble mark by finding which vernier mark matches up with a line on the thimble scale. Add this Figure 2-40.—Vernier scale of a micrometer. 2-26 Figure 2-41.—Reading a vernier scale micrometer. number, as that many ten-thousandths of an inch, to the original reading. In figure 2-41, see how the second line on the vernier scale matches up with a line on the thimble scale. This means that the 0.011 mark on the thimble scale has been advanced an additional 0.0002 beyond the horizontal sleeve line. When you add this to the other readings, the reading is 0.200 + 0.075 + 0.011 + 0.0002 or 0.2862, as shown. Inside Micrometer The inside micrometer, as the name implies, is used for measuring inside dimensions, such as pump casing wearing rings, cylinders, bearings, and bush- ings. Inside micrometers usually come in a set that includes a micrometer head, various length spindles (or extension rods) that are interchangeable, and a spacing collar that is 0.500 inch in length. The spin- dles (or extension rods) usually graduate in 1-inch increments of range; for example, 1 to 2 inches, 2 to 3 inches (fig. 2-42). The 0.500 spacing piece is used between the spin- dle and the micrometer head so the range of the mi- crometer can be extended. A knurled extension handle is usually furnished for obtaining measurements in hard-to-reach locations. To read the inside micrometer, read the microme- ter head exactly as you would an outside micrometer, then add the micrometer reading to the rod length (including spacing collar, when installed) to obtain the total measurement. When the 1- to 2-inch spindle is used, and the sleeve and thimble scales are set to 0.00 inch, the distance between the face of the anvil and the face of the spindle is exactly 1.00 inch. Figure 2-42.—Inside micrometer set. 2-27 The rule depth gage is a graduated rule with a sliding head designed to bridge a hole or slot and to hold the rule perpendicular to the surface on which the measurement is taken. This type has a measuring range of 0 to 5 inches. The sliding head has a clamping screw so it may be clamped in any position. The sliding head has a flat base that is perpendicular to the axis of the rule and ranges in size from 2 to 2 5/8 inches in width and from 1/8 to 1/4 inch in thickness. The micrometer depth gage consists of a flat base attached to the barrel (sleeve) of a micrometer head. These gages have a range from 0 to 9 inches, depending on the length of extension rod used. The hollow micrometer screw (the threads on which the thimble rotates) itself has a range of either 1/2 or 1 inch. Some have a ratchet stop. The flat base ranges in size from 2 to 6 inches. Several extension rods are normally supplied with this type of gage. To measure the depth of a hole or slot with reasonable accuracy, use a depth gage as shown in figure 2-48, view A. Hold the body of the depth gage against the surface from which the depth is to be measured and extend the scale into the hole or slot. Tighten the set-screw to maintain the setting. Withdraw the tool from the work and read the depth on the scale. To measure the depth of a hole or slot with more accuracy than is possible with an ordinary depth gage, place a vernier depth gage over the slot as shown in figure 2-48, view B. Notice the clamping screws are at X and Y; the horizontal adjusting screw nut is at Z. With X and Y loose, slide the scale down into the slot being measured until it is almost in contact. Then tighten X to make Z operative. With Z, adjust the scale to the proper feel and secure the setting with Y. By proper feel we mean the adjustment at which you first notice contact between the end of the scale and the bottom of the slot. Then read the setting as described under “Reading a Vernier Scale.” To set the vernier depth gage to a particular setting, loosen both setscrews at X and at Y and slide Figure 2-48.—Using depth gages. the scale through the gage to the approximate setting. Tighten the sets crew at X, turn the knurled nut at Z until the desired setting is made, and tighten the setscrew at Y to hold the setting. To measure the depth of a hole or slot, as shown in figure 2-48, view C, with more accuracy than is possible with either an ordinary depth gage or a vernier depth gage, place a micrometer depth gage over the slot and adjust the thimble until the contact of the spindle causes the ratchet stop to slip. Remove the micrometer from the work and read the micrometer. Remember, if extension rods are used, the total depth reading will be the sum of the length of the rods plus the reading on the micrometer. DIAL INDICATOR The dial indicator is used in several different ways to measure the amount of deviation (or runout) in revolving or rotating parts. Accurate shaft-to-shaft alignment is impossible without using a dial indicator. Dial indicators are supplied with various fittings, links, and adapters. Additionally, special application hardware is available. Figure 2-49 illustrates the basic hardware of a dial indicator set and two different types of dial heads. The dial scale is usually graduated in thousandths of an inch and has an adjustable bezel around it. The scale of a dial indicator usually reads plus numbers to the right of zero and minus numbers to the left of zero. The typical setup for checking the trueness of a shaft, using a dial indicator and vee blocks (or roller blocks), is to place the shaft in the vee blocks, mount the magnetic base or clamp attachment (whichever is the most appropriate) with the swivel post and dial head attached to a solid surface. Adjust the mounting linkage to a convenient angle that permits ease in reading the dial (but does not interfere with the task being performed). Bring the sensor button into contact with the shaft, loosen the swivel post clamp screw, raise and lower the sensor button to determine what the full travel of the indicator is. After the extent of travel has been determined, set the pointer at mid travel, secure the swivel post clamp screw, and then zero the dial with the adjustable bezel. Rotate the shaft slowly and observe the pointer for deviation. The combined deflection (plus and minus sides of the scale) is the total indicator reading (TIR). CARE OF PRECISION INSTRUMENTS Special treatment is required for precision instruments if they are to serve their intended purpose. The following precautions will help ensure their accuracy. 2-30 Figure 2-49.—Dial indicator and attachments. —Keep clean and lightly oiled. (Do not oil dial indicators.) —Always wipe an instrument clean of fingerprints before returning it to the box. —Always verify an instrument’s accuracy before using it by checking its calibration sticker. —Have a precision instrument calibrated accord- ing to PMS, when one has been dropped or when you are in doubt about the accuracy of one. —Always allow the temperature of a precision instrument to equalize with ambient temperature to ensure accuracy of measurements. —Return to the box a precision instrument not in use. —Never store a precision instrument with other tools such as wrenches, hammers, and so on. —Never carry a precision instrument in your pocket unless it has an appropriate pocket carrying case. —Never close a precision instrument such as an outside micrometer, vernier caliper, or dial indicator tight for storage. Temperature changes can cause frames, spindles, and so on, to become distorted. —Never open or close a micrometer by twirling the frame. —Never attempt to remove mill shavings or dirt from a precision instrument with an air hose. This procedure only embeds small particles into the working parts. —Never attempt to calibrate a precision instru- ment yourself. Always send it to an authorized calibrat- ing facility. —Never attempt to clean measuring surfaces with an abrasive. —Never force a precision instrument to attain a measurement. 2-31 —Never attempt to take readings on operating machinery. We have to understand that even with the best tools, it is the person behind the tool who makes things work. ABFs can take measurements accurately and new parts to be installed can be on hand. If the one who finally assembles the pump does not know how to torque a casing or pipe flange, he or she can destroy all the hard work and money that have been put into the job. For maintenance and repair on all equipment, use the appropriate technical manuals. CORROSION CONTROL LEARNING OBJECTIVES: Describe the types of corrosion the ABF will confront. Identify their signs and explain the corrective action. The most effective repair protection is prevention. A thorough maintenance program continuously carried out prevents most equipment failure. With higher strength and closer tolerances being demanded of met- als, equipment would rapidly become inoperable with- out regular anticorrosion maintenance. Corrosion endangers the equipment by reducing the strength and changing the mechanical characteristics of the metals used in its construction. Materials are de- signed to carry certain loads and withstand given stresses as well as to provide an extra margin of strength for safety. Corrosion can weaken the structure, thereby reducing or eliminating this safety factor. Corrosion may take place over the entire surface of a metal from chemical reaction with the surrounding environment. It may be electrochemical in nature be- tween two metallic materials or two points on the sur- face of the same alloy, differing in chemical activity. The presence of moisture is essential in both types of attacks. The most familiar example of corrosion is rust found on iron or steel. All metals are affected to some extent by the atmos- phere. Water and water vapor containing salt combine with oxygen in the atmosphere and produce the main source of corrosion. There are many forms of corrosion; the form of corrosion depends upon the metal involved, atmospheric conditions, and the corrosion-producing agents present. For this discussion, we may consider corrosion as three general types-surface, galvanic, and intergranular corrosion. SURFACE CORROSION The effect of the atmosphere produces a corrosion that appears on the surface of a metal as a general roughening, etching, or pitting. Iron rust is the most common example of surface corrosion. Although aluminum, magnesium, and other nonfer- rous metals do not rust, these metals are subject to surface corrosion. Surface corrosion on unpainted alu- minum alloy is evident as white or gray powdery depos- its on the metal surface. The condition is first indicated by the powdery residue deposited on the area of contact; later pitting and searing appear on the aluminum sur- face, and finally complete deterioration of the alumi- num. Corrosion on painted aluminum-alloy surfaces cannot be recognized by either the roughened surface or by the powdery deposit. Instead, the paint or plating appears to lift off the surface, indicated by a blistered appearance and/or discoloration that results from the pressure of the underlying accumulation of the corro- sion products. Surface corrosion on magnesium alloys can be rec- ognized by powdered or roughened surfaces. Magne- sium corrosion products are white and quite large compared to the size of the base metal being corroded. The deposits have a tendency to raise slightly, and the corrosion spreads rapidly. When white, puffy areas are discovered on magnesium, prompt attention is required to prevent the corrosion from penetrating entirely through the structure. This can occur in a very short time. It has been generally established that surface cor- rosion is caused by moisture in the air. Since this type of corrosion is visible, it can be detected in its early stages by close visual inspection. Surface corrosion can be prevented or retarded by protecting the metal surface with a plating or paint and by keeping the plating or paint in good condition. GALVANIC CORROSION Galvanic (or electrolytic) corrosion occurs when two different metals are connected and exposed to an electrolyte such as water, especially salt water. When aluminum pieces are attached with steel bolts or screws, galvanic corrosion may occur between the aluminum and steel in the presence of moisture. An electrical potential is setup, current flows between the two metals, and an effect similar to that which occurs in batteries is produced. Galvanic corrosion can usually be recog- nized by the presence of a buildup of corrosion products at the joint between two metals. Preventive measures include painting and plating. 2-32 prints are used to learn operation and maintenance of machines, systems, and equipment. Additional detailed information about mechanical drawing and the reading of prints and drawings is contained in Blueprint Reading and Sketching, NAVEDTRA 10077-F1. PLANNED MAINTENANCE SYSTEM LEARNING OBJECTIVES: Describe the 3-M systems’ purpose. Explain how the ABF will use the 3-M systems. Heads up thinking and asking questions can make your work as an ABF run smoothly. On a day- to-day basis, you come in contact with PMS. The PMS (Planned Maintenance System) weekly schedule displays the planned maintenance scheduled to be done in your work center for a specific week. The weekly PMS schedule is posted in each work center. It is used by the work center supervisor to assign and monitor the accomplishment of the required PMS tasks by work center personnel. The following is a list of the contents of weekly PMS schedules (fig. 2-50). 1. Work center code. 2. Date of current week. 3. Division officer’s approval signature. 4. MIP code minus the date code. Figure 2-50.—Weekly PMS schedule. 2-35 5. A list of applicable components. 6. Maintenance responsibilities assigned, by name, to each line item of equipment. 7. The periodicity codes of maintenance require- ments to be performed, listed by columns for each day. 8. Outstanding major repairs, applicable PMS re- quirements, and all situation requirements. As with any system, things change; as they do, there must be a way to communicate. In PMS the way is called the PMS FBR (Feedback Report, OPNAV 4790/7B Form). The PMS FBR is used by fleet per- sonnel to notify the NAVSEACEN and/or the TY- COM, as applicable, of matters related to PMS. The FBR is a five-part form composed of an original and four copies. Instructions for preparation and submis- sion of the form are printed on the back of the last copy. These forms are obtained through the Navy Supply System. They are to be prepared, submitted, and processed in two major categories. The two major categories of FBRs are category A and category B. These are defined as follows: Category A of FBR is nontechnical in nature and is intended to meet PMS needs that do not require technical review. Consequently, to reduce response time, the ship’s 3-M coordinator submits directly to the NAVSEACEN these FBRs, which pertain to the need for replacement of missing MIPs and MRCs. Category B FBRs are technical in nature. They are submitted by the ship’s 3-M coordinator to the appli- cable TYCOM and pertain to the following: 1. Technical discrepancies inhibiting PMS per- formance. These discrepancies can exist in “documen- tation, equipment design, maintainability, reliability, or safety procedures as well as operational deficiencies in PMS support (parts, tools, and test equipment). Dis- crepancies in technical manuals are reported by way of the TMDER (Technical Manual Deficiency/Evaluation Report), NAVSEA 4160/1. 2. Notification of shift of maintenance responsibil- ity from one work center to another. 3. TYCOM assistance in the clarification of 3-M instructions. CAUTION When the reason for submission of a PMS FBR involves safety of personnel or potential or actual damage to equipment and relates to the technical requirements of PMS, the FBR is considered URGENT. Urgent FBRs are for- warded by a naval message, containing a PMS feedback serial number, to the NAVSEACEN with information copies to the cognizant SYCOM/NAVMEDCOM/NAVSAFECEN. The message must describe the unsafe proce- dures or conditions and must identify the MIP/MRC involved. A follow-up PMS FBR may be submitted to amplify information con- tained in the message. It must contain reference to the message and the FBR serial number indicated in the message subject. For complete information on PMS, consult the SHIPS’ 3-M MANUAL, OPNAVINST 4790.4. QUALITY ASSURANCE (QA) PROGRAM LEARNING OBJECTIVES: Describe the pur- pose of the Quality Assurance Program. Ex- plain the areas in which it will apply to maintenance performed by the ABF. A Quality Assurance Program is essential to en- sure consistent, quality repairs and maintenance of shipboard equipment. The QA Program is intended to improve force readiness through the implementation of a formalized plan that sets forth minimum require- ments to be accomplished for nonnuclear mainte- nance and repair actions performed by forces afloat. The Quality Assurance Manual (Forces Afloat), COMNAVAIRPAC/LANTINST 9090.1, provides the plan and contains the necessary guidance to estab- lish an effective and viable QA Program. The QA Program is important to the ABF because JP-5 piping, valves, tanks, pumps, filters, and most other equipment related to the JP-5 system are in- cluded in its coverage. Do not confuse the QA Pro- gram, which is designed to ensure quality maintenance on equipment, with Quality Surveil- lance, which is used to ensure high quality fuel is delivered to aircraft. 2-36 The QA Program is intended to achieve quality work through internal audits and in-process inspec- tions. In-process is defined as that period of time during which the fabrication, maintenance, and/or re- pair task is being accomplished. For forces afloat, the in-process inspection control document is the control- led work package (CWP). A CWP is developed to ensure a quality product will result from in-process fabrication, maintenance, and repair tasks. There are two primary objectives a CWP must accomplish; first, it must provide the qual- ity control techniques and all the technical informa- tion needed to accomplish the work properly. Secondly, it must provide objective quality evidence (OQE), so when the work is completed, a documented record exists to show the work was done correctly and to specified standards. The typical CWP consists of references, various enclosures that include applicable QA forms, material requirements, prerequisites, safety precautions, gen- eral notes, and a step-by-step work sequence, includ- ing tests and inspections, with signature requirements. Each CWP will cover the entire scope of the work process and will be able to stand close examination based solely on its contents. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS LEARNING OBJECTIVE: State the ABF’s re- sponsibility in observing safety precautions. Many personnel confront dangers in their work- day lives, and a number of safety precautions apply to all personnel at one time or another. A shipboard environment “introduces factors affecting safety that are not found ashore. Underway refueling, multiship exercises, storms, and other situations require person- nel at sea to be constantly vigilant. An accident at sea can involve all hands in a matter of seconds. Everyone must be continually alert to hazardous conditions. Navy Safety Precautions for Forces Afloat, OPNAV- INST 5100.19, provides a general reference for man- datory and advisory safety precautions. You need not learn each safety precaution by heart, but you should know what each means and why it should be observed. Although most of the precau- tions given here are from a shipboard viewpoint, many of them apply equally well ashore. The hazards presented by improperly grounded electrical tools, for example, are the same everywhere. Remember: Acci- dents seldom just happen, they are caused. Another point to remember is never let familiarity breed con- tempt. Hundreds of people have been injured by acci- dents, and many have died because of their injuries. Most of those accidents could have been prevented had the personnel involved heeded the proper safety precautions. It is the responsibility of supervisory personnel to ensure that subordinates are instructed in and carry out the applicable safety precautions for their work and work areas. You are responsible for knowing, understanding, and observing all safety precautions that apply to your work and work area. In addition, YOU are responsible for the following: —You shall report for work rested and emotionally prepared for the tasks at hand. —You shall use normal reasoning in all your func- tions, equal with the work at hand. —You shall report any unsafe condition, or any equipment or material that you consider unsafe, and any unusual or developing hazards. —You shall warn others whom you believe to be endangered by known hazards or by failure to observe safety precautions, and of any unusual or developing hazards. —You shall report to your supervisor any accident, injury, or evidence of impaired health occurring in the course of work. —You shall wear or use the protective clothing and/or equipment of the type required, approved, and supplied for the safe performance of your duties. —You shall report for work suitably clothed for your assigned tasks. Suitable clothing is that normally worn by mem- bers of the trade or profession. Certain hair styles are hazardous around machinery and open flame and may interfere with vision or use of breathing devices. Hair shall be suitably restrained in caps or nets. Safety shoes or foot protection devices, including nonspark- ing and nonslip shoes, shall be worn when hazards so indicate. Jewelry, loose scarves, and ties shall not be worn when they might subject the wearer to additional hazards. Anyone requiring eye correction, hearing aids, or prosthetic devices to assure prompt percep- tion and avoidance of hazards must use such devices while at work. 2-37