Understanding Fashion: Sex Differences, Adornment, and Fashion Cycles - Prof. E. Bourgeois, Exams of Biology

Download Understanding Fashion: Sex Differences, Adornment, and Fashion Cycles - Prof. E. Bourgeois and more Exams Biology in PDF only on Docsity! Test 4 Wednesday, November 10, 2010 9:43 AM Test 4 Final Page 1 Concept varies with age.□ Not the same in all cultures□ Not instinct□ Modesty is not the most important theory because Mosaic theory○ Modesty• When you use clothing to draw attention to your body.○ Immodesty• Primitive man wore face paint.○ Today- bullet proof vest, helmets, sunglasses.○ Protection• Most widely accepted theory used to explain the purpose of clothing.○ Means the lend beauty.○ Sex differences Sexual attraction Status Occupation Extension of self Motives for Personal Adornment○ ADORNMENT or decoration• Why Man First Began To Wear Clothes• Cut and sewn to conform to the shape of the body.○ Tailored• One continuous piece of fabric that is not cut or sewn.○ Right to left Over left shoulder Agriculture community Demonstration of draped garment Similarities of draped garments○ Combination of tailored and draped Considered western world clothing. Composite○ Draped• Differences○ Diversities• General features which all cultures have in common○ Universalities• Basic Styles of Dress• Rigid class distinctions• Customs• Isolation• Fear• Factors that slow down fashion change• Democracy• Abundance of wealth• Leisure• Been considered the most important criteria for changing. Sports**• Factors that accelerate fashion change• Textiles, Apparel, and Merchandising Wednesday, November 10, 2010 9:43 AM Test 4 Final Page 2 Why and how they purchase and use items is different.• Ways to identify specific consumer groups• Age Income Study of populations through statistical analysis of quantifiable facts○ Demographics• Shopping habits Product preference Personal values Study of the lifestyles of groups of people, based on social trends○ Psychographics• Opinionated, seek services along with products, high amounts of discretionary income □ Baby Boomers (1946-1964) Career development and family needs such as quality home life are typical reasons for product purchases □ Generation X (1965-1979) Market most sought after by marketers□ Generation Y (1980-forward) Has money to spend, but is undeserved by fashion and retail professionals□ The "Grey Market" (before 1945) Based on characteristics exhibited by consumers born within a particular time period.○ Four Major Recognized Consumer Groups• Income, lifestyle, fashion preference, special interest, size, occupation, etc.○ Market segmentation- dividing the market into smaller groups with common characteristics• 78.5 million baby boomers○ 20 million Generation X○ 80 million Generation Y○ Over stimulated brain, gym orientated, tattoos, electronics (iPods, Blackberries, laptops, live their best lives now!) ○ How people shop will be interesting to watch in the next years.○ Currently• Primary- producers who provide the raw materials• Secondary- manufacturers, the wholesaler who produces the merchandise we call the finished product. • Retail- the retailers who sell the finished product• All levels are involved in marketing, merchandising and promoting fashion.• Market levels in the production and distribution of fashion• Test 4 Final Page 5 Communication1. Self Expression2. Enhance the physical environment3. Teach Order4. Purpose of Design- uses elements and principles to create an orderly design• An extended dot.○ Simple or actual1. Suggested or implied2. Classifications:○ Causes the eye to move up and down- Slenderize a figure- Vertical□ Adds width- Horizontal□ Movement, action, requires support.- Diagonal□ Straight1. Oval, circular, spiral□ Curved2. Combination of the two3. Kinds:○ To define a shape□ Structural1. To form a border or all over pattern□ To express beauty□ To create an optical illusion□ Decorative2. Use○ Line• The flat enclosure of space.○ Square, circle, triangle□ Geometric1. Best source of a good design (easily recognizable things)□ Imitate things in nature□ Natural2. Simplify, exaggerate, rearrange□ Abstract3. Non-objective (little kid's drawings)4. Categories:○ Shape• All the area within the enclosure○ Occupied or filled□ Positive1. Unoccupied or not filled□ Negative2. Space is:○ Kinds: Space• Elements of Design• Design Friday, November 19, 2010 9:43 AM Test 4 Final Page 6 2 dimensional design□ Actual1. 3 dimensional design, shows perspective or depth□ Pictorial2. Kinds:○ Surface quality, the way it might feel○ Tactile- appeals to our sense of touch1. Visual- appeals to our sense of sight2. Types:○ Rough matte- wool, wood, cement1. Rough glossy- straw, brocade2. Smooth matte- velvet, corduroy3. Smooth glossy- satin, glass, polished metal4. There are four basic textures:○ Cool and tranquil□ Pleasant to touch□ Shed dirt easily□ Reflect light□ Smooth textures Attract attention□ Look informal□ Catch dirt□ Break up light□ Rough textures Effects of texture○ Texture• Hue- colors name1. Value- lightness or darkness2. Intensity- brightness or dullness3. Three dimensions○ Monochromatic- only one color□ Analogous- quiet and restful, found in nature□ Similarities1. Opposites- Complement□ Three colors- Triad□ Contrasts2. Split complement□ Double complement□ Similarities and contrast3. Color Harmonies○ Color• Rest or repose obtained by grouping shapes and colors around a center so there is equal attraction on each side of the center. ○ Seesaw principle○ Objects on each side are alike□ Quiet, dignified□ Formal1. Objects on two sides are not alike, but appear to be equivalent visually□ Informal2. Kinds of balance○ Balance• Principles of Design (use these to create all of these in a design)• Test 4 Final Page 7 Color application to textile fabrics is very important because fashion is dependent on colors for the season. • Color may be added to textile fabrics through the process of dyeing, printing, or heat transfer.• Solvent/solution dyeing- add dye to fiber before it is spun (man-made only)○ Fiber dyeing- color the fiber before it is spun into a yarn (tweeds)○ Yarn dyeing- color the yarn once it is constructed, but before it is woven into fabric (stripes, plaids, stripes, and ginghams) ○ Piece dying- color the fabric whole; most economical○ Cross dyeing- utilizes piece dying to get a multicolor fabric, (different fibers dyed all at once and the result is each fiber reacts different to the dye) ○ Dyeing• t-shirts and signs. Screen print-○ The oldest technique (stamps) Block print○ (tie and dye) Resist print○ Printing• Iron it on○ Heat Transfer• Color and Design• Visa- a soil fabric that prevents staining○ Anything done to a fiber, a yarn, or a fabric to change the appearance performance, or hand (way fabric feels). • Durable press• Moth proof• Flame retardant• Soil repellant• Finish• Requires that a label state whether the wool used in a textile item is new or virgin or recycled. ○ Requires percentage of wool to be on label.○ Wool Products Labeling Act (1939)• Name of animal Country of origin New or used fur Dyed or bleach Requires that the consumer be informed on the label and in advertising○ Fur Products Labeling Act (1951)• Amended (1967)○ Established standards for the flammability of clothing textiles, vinyl plastic film (used in clothing), carpets and rugs, children's sleepwear and mattresses and mattress pads. ○ Wearing apparel and fabrics that are highly flammable may NOT be sold.○ Flammable Fabrics Act (1953)• Requires mandatory fiber content labeling by percentages of all textile fiber products and covers textiles used for wearing apparel, costumes, and accessories; as well as draperies, floor coverings, furnishing, bedding, and other textile goods that would be used in a household. ○ Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (1958)• Also known as Permanent Care Labeling○ Requires all wearing apparel and fabrics sold by the yard to have a permanently affixed label giving instructions for care. ○ Trade Regulation Rule (1972)• Legislation Affecting Textiles• Test 4 Final Page 10 giving instructions for care. Amended in (1984) and (1997).○ The apparel and textile industry is very important to the economic health of the nation.• It is one of the largest industries in the U.S.• What could the other large industries be?• Paper, petroleum/refining, auto, aerospace, primary metals.• We consume clothing but no longer produce our clothes in America.• Textile and Apparel Industry• Cheaper prices○ Cheaper labor○ Good workmanship○ Variety of merchandise is available○ Good for foreign relations○ Good for national economy○ Why import?• Quota- limit or a restriction on the number of units of a specific item that can be shipped to a country over a specific time period. • Quotas were discontinued!• Global competition has changed forever what is available for consumers.• We import most of our clothing• Clothing and footwear must be labeled to show the country in which they were produced.• The label must be in English• Clothing must be labeled with a permanent label which can be seen by a prospective buyer.• If, for any reason, the label cannot be properly seen or attached, the country of origin information must be provided on packaging or on an accompanying label or pamphlet. • Rule ran out in January 2005.• Made in the USA campaign.○ Made the American public aware that few items are made in the U.S.○ Crafted with Pride in U.S.A.• Barcode○ Quick response or EDI• Have the potential to change how mfg size their garments.○ Body Scanners• The E-Tailor = A new digital Tailoring system that scans customers for a perfect fit.○ Brooks Brothers• August 2010○ Suit fitting○ Apparel Magazine• Body imaging, custom fits○ Scanning and designing clothes○ October 29,2008○ The Advocate• Assist the garment industry in uniform sizes for clothing Assist medical doctors to get a visual Body imaging could○ Digital Printing• Odor eliminating○ Anti-bacterial○ Water absorbent○ Underwear you don't change for four months.○ J Wear Japanese underwear• Country of origin rule January 1985• Test 4 Final Page 11